Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Help on Building Custom .338
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="lazylabs" data-source="post: 536087" data-attributes="member: 6641"><p>What contour of barrel are you going with? If it's sendero or that class and smaller I would skip the bedding of a barrel shank and floating the action business. It will take several inches of straight barrel shank and quite a bit of additional cost. If your going single shot then you can get a laminate stock with no magazine cutout(very rigid) glue in a single shot follower and then pillar and glass the action and you will have plenty of rigidity. </p><p></p><p>Muzzle brakes, surface area is what makes it all work. If you go with something less than 3/4 of a inch in dia with a 338 bore you are losing most of the surface area the gasses have to work against. If you angle the ports back you get more effective brake and also more noise at the shooter. </p><p></p><p>The LM and 338/378 can be done on the rem action but I would skip it(have one). It adds cost and possible risk if you decide to hotrod them. The RUM and EDGE will get you very acceptable performance to well past 1000 and when that gets boring you can go wild on something else. </p><p></p><p>Read some of the post made by long time long ranger about the CE bullets and then consider the standard RUM case and you get very good performance.</p><p></p><p>If you really want to beat your head against the wall start running the numbers on the 300 WSM and RUM with heavy bullets and the 338 with 250-275gr bullets and consider the that you get less recoil with the 30 cal. How much knockdown are you looking for?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="lazylabs, post: 536087, member: 6641"] What contour of barrel are you going with? If it's sendero or that class and smaller I would skip the bedding of a barrel shank and floating the action business. It will take several inches of straight barrel shank and quite a bit of additional cost. If your going single shot then you can get a laminate stock with no magazine cutout(very rigid) glue in a single shot follower and then pillar and glass the action and you will have plenty of rigidity. Muzzle brakes, surface area is what makes it all work. If you go with something less than 3/4 of a inch in dia with a 338 bore you are losing most of the surface area the gasses have to work against. If you angle the ports back you get more effective brake and also more noise at the shooter. The LM and 338/378 can be done on the rem action but I would skip it(have one). It adds cost and possible risk if you decide to hotrod them. The RUM and EDGE will get you very acceptable performance to well past 1000 and when that gets boring you can go wild on something else. Read some of the post made by long time long ranger about the CE bullets and then consider the standard RUM case and you get very good performance. If you really want to beat your head against the wall start running the numbers on the 300 WSM and RUM with heavy bullets and the 338 with 250-275gr bullets and consider the that you get less recoil with the 30 cal. How much knockdown are you looking for? [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Help on Building Custom .338
Top