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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Help Needed with LB3.0 and .338 Bergers
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<blockquote data-quote="jmden" data-source="post: 398214" data-attributes="member: 1742"><p>Hmm...I was wondering as well if you zero at 300 yd vs. 100 yd, for instance, that you may not notice as much the spin drift to the right (if RH spin, which is typical) and right coriolis 'drift' (if you are in the northern hemishpere) at longer distances since some of the effects are taken into account with a longer zero, such as a 300 yd. zero. </p><p> </p><p>Some on this board will zero a half MOA to the left to try and take into account right coriolis 'drift' (if in N hemis) and/or spin drift. Litz mentions in his book that a person might order a left hand twist barrel to try and offset the right coriolis 'drift' against the left spin drift, but cautions that later that "spin drift is about 5 times greater than coriolis".</p><p> </p><p>Personally, I zero at 100 yd to have more confidence in shot placement for that quick close shot, if need be, and this has helped me harvest a couple of animals at close range. </p><p> </p><p>I also follow to the 'T' (same tools and all) the scope/rifle setup procedures phorwath mentions earlier, which I think is quite important for the lr shooter to do or the ballistics programs don't seem to me like they are going to work very well. That said, with the little lr shooting I get to do, I'm can't say for sure that I see spin drift (Litz calls it Gyroscopic Drift) and coriolis I see on the targets. Probably just my lack of experience/skill as they certainly exist.</p><p> </p><p>You guys with LB--what does it show in regards to gyroscopic drift...do you see a change in this value with a change in bullet? Say you went from shooting a 300RUM with 240 SMKs at 2920fps to shooting 210 Bergers 2990fps. How does this value change at 1000yds with a 100yd zero...and a 300yd zero?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="jmden, post: 398214, member: 1742"] Hmm...I was wondering as well if you zero at 300 yd vs. 100 yd, for instance, that you may not notice as much the spin drift to the right (if RH spin, which is typical) and right coriolis 'drift' (if you are in the northern hemishpere) at longer distances since some of the effects are taken into account with a longer zero, such as a 300 yd. zero. Some on this board will zero a half MOA to the left to try and take into account right coriolis 'drift' (if in N hemis) and/or spin drift. Litz mentions in his book that a person might order a left hand twist barrel to try and offset the right coriolis 'drift' against the left spin drift, but cautions that later that "spin drift is about 5 times greater than coriolis". Personally, I zero at 100 yd to have more confidence in shot placement for that quick close shot, if need be, and this has helped me harvest a couple of animals at close range. I also follow to the 'T' (same tools and all) the scope/rifle setup procedures phorwath mentions earlier, which I think is quite important for the lr shooter to do or the ballistics programs don't seem to me like they are going to work very well. That said, with the little lr shooting I get to do, I'm can't say for sure that I see spin drift (Litz calls it Gyroscopic Drift) and coriolis I see on the targets. Probably just my lack of experience/skill as they certainly exist. You guys with LB--what does it show in regards to gyroscopic drift...do you see a change in this value with a change in bullet? Say you went from shooting a 300RUM with 240 SMKs at 2920fps to shooting 210 Bergers 2990fps. How does this value change at 1000yds with a 100yd zero...and a 300yd zero? [/QUOTE]
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Help Needed with LB3.0 and .338 Bergers
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