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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Headspace Advice Needed
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<blockquote data-quote="Fitch" data-source="post: 393213" data-attributes="member: 19372"><p>I completely agree - use gages.</p><p> </p><p>I only work on my own rifles - I do it because I'm retired, have the time and tools, and really enjoy it. I've done several Savages, all with both go and no-go gages. After some experimentation on the first one I follow this procedure with Savages when I use the barrel nut, and so far it's always worked:</p><p></p><ul> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Hold the barrel in a barrel vise, put a ring of tape around the barrel out beyond the threads to hang the barrel nut wrench on so it won't scratch the barrel (don't ask), coat the tenon threads, receiver threads, barrel nut threads, and the nut side of the recoil lug with assembly lube. I use assembly lube because it is an extreme pressure lubricant designed specifically to prevent galling. I've also used Anti-sieze #5, it works fine, but like the way the assy lube feels better.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Screw the barrel nut on past where it will need to be, put on the barrel nut wrench past the nut (hanging from the barrel where the tape is), put on the recoil lug, make sure the little indexing lug is facing the receiver.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Disasssemble the bolt, strip the bolt head, reassemble the bolt with out the extractor and ejector. Screw the barrel onto the action with the bolt and go-gage in place till it just touches the go-gage.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Hold it right there, position the recoil lug and carefully bring up the barrel nut finger tight.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Take out the bolt and go-gage, put in a home made rear entry action wrench to hold the receiver in place (it doesn't take much to hold it) and torque the barrel nut to 100 to 125 ft-lbs on the standard tenon, 125 to 150 ft-lbs on the larger target action tenon. Yeah, I know, it's a lot of torque, but they never come loose, and they shoot just fine.</li> </ul><p>The tenon always stretches ~0.001 to 0.002 inches near as I can tell. The go-gage will go bare but definitely won't go with a piece of cellophane tape on it, the no-go gage won't go at all. So far this procedure has given me a nice tight chamber. </p><p> </p><p>I can't imagine using a case to set headspace though Richard Franklin does it in his metal smithing video. Compared to a precision ground set of steel gages rifle brass has all the dimensional stability of a pink pearl eraser. </p><p> </p><p>Fitch</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Fitch, post: 393213, member: 19372"] I completely agree - use gages. I only work on my own rifles - I do it because I'm retired, have the time and tools, and really enjoy it. I've done several Savages, all with both go and no-go gages. After some experimentation on the first one I follow this procedure with Savages when I use the barrel nut, and so far it's always worked: [LIST] [*]Hold the barrel in a barrel vise, put a ring of tape around the barrel out beyond the threads to hang the barrel nut wrench on so it won't scratch the barrel (don't ask), coat the tenon threads, receiver threads, barrel nut threads, and the nut side of the recoil lug with assembly lube. I use assembly lube because it is an extreme pressure lubricant designed specifically to prevent galling. I've also used Anti-sieze #5, it works fine, but like the way the assy lube feels better. [*]Screw the barrel nut on past where it will need to be, put on the barrel nut wrench past the nut (hanging from the barrel where the tape is), put on the recoil lug, make sure the little indexing lug is facing the receiver. [*]Disasssemble the bolt, strip the bolt head, reassemble the bolt with out the extractor and ejector. Screw the barrel onto the action with the bolt and go-gage in place till it just touches the go-gage. [*]Hold it right there, position the recoil lug and carefully bring up the barrel nut finger tight. [*]Take out the bolt and go-gage, put in a home made rear entry action wrench to hold the receiver in place (it doesn't take much to hold it) and torque the barrel nut to 100 to 125 ft-lbs on the standard tenon, 125 to 150 ft-lbs on the larger target action tenon. Yeah, I know, it's a lot of torque, but they never come loose, and they shoot just fine. [/LIST]The tenon always stretches ~0.001 to 0.002 inches near as I can tell. The go-gage will go bare but definitely won't go with a piece of cellophane tape on it, the no-go gage won't go at all. So far this procedure has given me a nice tight chamber. I can't imagine using a case to set headspace though Richard Franklin does it in his metal smithing video. Compared to a precision ground set of steel gages rifle brass has all the dimensional stability of a pink pearl eraser. Fitch [/QUOTE]
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