Handgun Hunting/Shooting for the Rifle Guy

guns_and_labs

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I've been playing with an XP-100 chambered in .260 Remington, in preparation to having a long range version built, and finding I have a lot to learn about using these little hand cannons. Can anyone point me to a forum or book on how to shoot them (compared to a rifle)?

I'm trying to shoot it like a rifle, and not getting consistent results. Questions like:

1. Are you supposed to control the recoil or let it jump?
2. How do you boresight, or even sight one in, even the muzzle jump is so extreme?
3. What's the "correct" form, arms extended or bent?
 
Did you come right? I'm new here, so I'm trying to work through some of the older stuff so I don't ask too many dumb questions that have been answered before.

I'm more of a revolver shot, but from other h/gun hunters I know most of their single shot shooting is done off rests (backpack, trees, anthills), shooting sticks, or some or other sort of supine, or prone, position.

Arms a little bent is always the most comfortable when shooting big recoiling handguns - like pushing in a push-up position off a wall slightly to just short of locking out. Bent too much seems to bring any large recoiler back at your face.

The balance on some of those sigle shots can be cr@ppy for off hand shooting.

That said, I think the "hunter Silhouette" class permits some Contenders with straight wall cases and is shot off-hand.

I suggest you visit your local / nearest silhouette club and ask around.THey will know way more than I ever will...

Check out http://www.lasc.us/ .

good luck with it.
 
Your best shooting will be prone w/ a short bipod unless you have access to a bench in the field (doubtful). This year I shot a turkey at 229yds, and deer 238 and 270yds using this method.

As for recoil...just let it jump. You can not consistently control the recoil by holding it down and gripping it super tight...you will get inconsistent recoil and terrible groups. Recoil from a .260 should not be bad at all. Is your gun a center grip or rear grip? The center's will have more muzzle flip than the rear's...especially if you have a pencil barrel. My XP 7mm Mauser has a VERY thin barrel and whips quite a bit but still shoots MOA. My Striker 7mm-08 has a 16.75" Shilen heavy barrel and barely lifts off the bags.

Bore sight it just like a rifle...make sure the gun is rested firmly so you can move your head around without moving the gun. I just remove the bolt and sight down the bore, the lift my head and look through the scope and adjust the scope as needed.

Grip the gun like you are shaking a lady's hand...well...a "manly lady". Firm but gentle. Don't grab it like you are trying to open a jar of pickles.

Arm extension...I extend as far as the optics will allow. The Burris 3-12x32 is the ONLY way to go as far as a LR handgun scope. On the lower settings I can get out to arms length but at 12X I have to creep up on it a bit.

I know of an excellent handgun site but I don't know if the admin on this site likes or dislikes links to other forums. So I don't want to step on anyones toes.
 
Everything that Dan B. said.

I don't shoot a bolt gun but a Contender in 7x30 Waters. It is loaded with a very stiff 140gr load which shoots better than I can hold it. As for the bi-pod if you can use one best thing going, if not, I use a fanny pack which I stuffed the main bag with pillow stuffing and it works great in a pinch. Definately prone or shooting sticks will be your best bet.

As for the grip, Dan is right on with that, I tought a young lady to shoot her Walther .380 by letting her shoot my 44 mag. Same principal, she was squeezing the grip way to tight, after shooting the 44 she put a lot of guy's I know to shame with her pistol. Just took getting away from the thought of it coming back and hitting her. SAme applies with the high powered handcannons. If you have enough grip to hang on to it, you will find that you can shoot it way more proficiently just by leting it do it's thing.

Good luck and the best recommendation I have is practice, practice, practice.
 
Everything those guys said, and...

I am also big into the SSP's. I use bipods mostly for field shooting in the prairie, where weight is not much of an issue. I have found that u can get pretty steady from a tall Harris bipod in the sitting position using a soft-sided stadium seat, or makeshift backrest of some sort-- I have actually shot out to a thousand yds. using this system with a surprising degree of accuracy. This is the system i use for coyote calling.

There r several sites out there for SSP users, and u owe it to yourself to investigate them, as there is a world of knowledge there, but when it comes to longrange u've hit the mark here for sure.

That 260 Rem. will be no problem. I know 2 kids that shot my 7-270 WSM at 800 yds. during a practical field shoot we put on down here in Pueblo, CO every other yr., and they had no problem with it at all. 1 of the kids shot a very light rig in 6.5-284 all day long, and loved it.

Specialty pistols at long-range is more fun than any other shooting-- just ask me i'll tell u.

One of the gunsmiths that hangs out here on this forum Kirby Allen of Allen's Precision Shooting built my 7-270 WSM XP, and shoots a 6.5 WSM XP hisself.
 
guns and labs, Get to a LR silhouette match and learn the creedmore position. If cover heighth is not a problem, I would take the creedmore over a bipod any day of the week. It is the same principle as prone to a rifle shooter. It takes some practice and flexibility, but a good silhouette can stack bullets out of the creedmore. It is fast to assume and requires nothing but your body! Good luck! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
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