Going to attempt my first bedding job

Discussion in 'Long Range Hunting & Shooting' started by Southernfryedyankee, Aug 15, 2009.

  1. Southernfryedyankee

    Southernfryedyankee Well-Known Member

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    Someone had mentioned Devcon plastic steel, would this be an appropriate bedding compound for a wood/laminate stock. Should I do a skim bed or a full bed? Does a full bed mean that I need to remove extra material from the stock? This is a picture of my stock, where else am I supposed to remove material from? I am leaving the tang alone and I am placing electical tape around the barrel to give a free float to where a dollar bill can wiz in between the barrel and stock with no hang ups. I will not be bedding the barrel channel. I will be using either kiwi shoe polish or the green turte wax (someone used it on a different site) as I would be able to see it better agains the black of the action and barrel. I am going to use play dough to dam everything up but am I supposed to let it dry first? Am I supposed to let the tang sit freely and put tape around the barrel? What happens if there is a slight incline to the rifle? Any advice would be great. I thank EVERY1 in advance

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  2. AJ Peacock

    AJ Peacock Well-Known Member

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  3. Southernfryedyankee

    Southernfryedyankee Well-Known Member

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    If I had the tools I would have definitly given that a go. When my $$$ is right I am going to get myself a drill press. I have done some research and i feel very confident. I actually installed my first grind to fit recoil pad 2day by turning my belt sander upside down, locking it in my vise and grinding the recoil pad and it came out awesome. Im on a that came out awesome streakgun)
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2009
  4. AJ Peacock

    AJ Peacock Well-Known Member

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    Even if your not pillar bedding, it's a good read to get a little more familiar with how bedding is done.

    AJ
     
  5. geargrinder

    geargrinder Well-Known Member

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    Don't remove the material or bed the area in front of the recoil lug. The third circle from the left. Do do anything there
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2009
  6. Russ M

    Russ M Well-Known Member

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    this is a good thread for me as i am planing on bedding my rifle some time here in the nere future
    another kind of compund i have been hearing about for bedding is marine-tex gray
    dose any one know if one kind of bedding compound is notably better than another or is it mostly personal preferance
     
  7. geargrinder

    geargrinder Well-Known Member

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    Everyone has their favorite. Devcon, Marine-Tex, Acra-Glass gel, the list goes on.

    It really boils down to personal preference.

    I use JB weld and Kiwi shoe polish. It works good for me. A little on the liquid side, but I really like the working time and availability.

    If I was going to bed rifles for a living I'd probably be using the Devcon putty.
     
  8. wildcat338

    wildcat338 Well-Known Member

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  9. Southernfryedyankee

    Southernfryedyankee Well-Known Member

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  10. wildcat338

    wildcat338 Well-Known Member

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    Glad you liked it hope it helped although its for pillars as well still some good info! Goodluck on your bedding job and dont forget to post up when youre done!
     
  11. Southernfryedyankee

    Southernfryedyankee Well-Known Member

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    Ok well I took the plunge and did it. I must say if its your first time make a checklist. I DID forget to tape my stock around the seep out areas. I DID forget to tape up the barrel channel a little just in case. I DID NOT FORGET to plug the action or stock with playdough and wax the H E dbl hockey stix out of the action, barrel recoil lug. I am VERY nervous right now but I feel like it went well. I did not get alot of seepout on both sides, is that bad? If by chance I did not add enough epoxy can I reskim bed it to fill in any areas that may not have had ample epoxy?
     
  12. AJ Peacock

    AJ Peacock Well-Known Member

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    You don't need a lot of 'seepout' to have enough. If you have some void's you can skim them in, or ignore them. Unless they are large areas, I typicall ignore small voids, I've never found them to hurt anything.

    What did you use as a bedding material? How much longer until you pop your action out and see how it looks?

    AJ
     
  13. Stocky

    Stocky <strong>SPONSOR</STRONG>

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    In my book, Acraglas gel is the one I have settled on for customer jobs / recommendations. Get the GlasBed version if you are a beginner because it comes with everything and doesn't require measuring out. I use it a lot too because it is so handy. make sure you prep the surfaces to get a mechanical lock (undercutting the recoil lug region, for example) in addition to the normal 'stickiness' (a.k.a. keying).

    I have been doing some research into the various properties and this is what I have found ... As a rule of thumb the thinner the epoxy the better the 'keying' into the stock material so I personally stay away from putties. If using a putty engineering a mechanical lock of some sort would be very important. Also, the slower the cure the better the keying because it has more time to soak in. I thought the slower cures were also harder but reviewing specs on about 100 different epoxies this past weekend shows that not to be true, or even a rule of thumb. Some of the faster ones are very hard.

    Here's an interesting fact: Simply stated, keying is the ability of the epoxy to microscopically penetrate into the pores of the material being bonded and harden like that, locked or 'keyed' in place. That is how epoxies operate. The resulting curing process converts them to an inert material which chemically sticks to nothing so keying is very important. That's why, when attempting to bed many 'tupperware' stocks, it stays put for a period of time but eventually falls right out. Oops. Also, epoxy will only chemically bond with itself while it is still tacky. (don't feel bad, I didn't know that either) If fully cured one must do the mechanical lock thing to be sucessful.

    I realize other epoxies are good also, and use about 10 different types for other purposes (including 10 feet tall, 6 inch diameter high-powered rockets that break the sound barrier) but for bedding purposes I have found nothing better.

    On the subject of marine epoxy, just got me a jug of West Systems 105 with some various filler agents for the rockets, but I may try a rifle with one. Specs say 0% shrinkage with an 83 hardness so it should be great when thickened. Aeropoxy 6029 would be a good candidate also. Both are formulated to take a pounding, one for waves and the other for light aircraft.

    After doing one rifle way back when with Pam as a release agent I'll not do that again because it left ripples & waves in the epoxy. Guess you have to keep it on thin which makes me nervous. Use it all the time on screws and small stuff however.

    I don't use any waxes either as it is difficult to remove completely from the metal and also hard to see gaps where it may not have been applied. Also seems to change the color of the steel also, perhaps this is because of residual wax remaining.

    Acraglas release agent rinses off completely with warm water and is relatively easy to see on the steel in good light.

    If you haven't tried it out yet I have been using the new Brownells Acra-20 in the dispenser gun with great results. Bit pricey to get set up but really easy and very accurate to use if you are doing a bunch of pillars or something. Self mixes in the tip and you can put it right where you need it.

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    Whatever you do don't get the stainless gel, it's soft and it smells like steel to high heaven even after it cures. I put like 1CC of it on a block over a month ago and it still stinks, it'd spook game for miles.
     
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2009