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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Glass bedding
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<blockquote data-quote="Lefty38-55" data-source="post: 2461045" data-attributes="member: 95029"><p>A looooong time ago I wrote a full tutorial with detailed pictures for bedding Savage rifles that was hosted on Accurate Reloading, then Sniper Hide and eventually the old Savage Forums, at least before their re-boot. The article was '<u>Lefty's 101 Savage Glass Bedding</u>' and can be found cached in some places. I can't get to those sites now, as am running from a work server. </p><p></p><p>But others hit the high points above, i.e., don't bed the rear tang, leave it floated, use extensive 'mechanical locks' in plastic stocks, etc. I also made extensive use of carbon arrows, with holes cut into the sides (like Swiss cheese), for stiffening up flimsy forends. </p><p></p><p>Again, the holes in tubes allow the epoxy to mechanically bond to the material. In blind holes in wood, say for a repair area, it also allows the epoxy to soak in everywhere, as a 'blind hole' can often become a 'dry hole' as the air at the bottom of the hole prevents full penetration. Which is why I never use 'solid' dowells for any stock repairs.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Lefty38-55, post: 2461045, member: 95029"] A looooong time ago I wrote a full tutorial with detailed pictures for bedding Savage rifles that was hosted on Accurate Reloading, then Sniper Hide and eventually the old Savage Forums, at least before their re-boot. The article was '[U]Lefty's 101 Savage Glass Bedding[/U]' and can be found cached in some places. I can't get to those sites now, as am running from a work server. But others hit the high points above, i.e., don't bed the rear tang, leave it floated, use extensive 'mechanical locks' in plastic stocks, etc. I also made extensive use of carbon arrows, with holes cut into the sides (like Swiss cheese), for stiffening up flimsy forends. Again, the holes in tubes allow the epoxy to mechanically bond to the material. In blind holes in wood, say for a repair area, it also allows the epoxy to soak in everywhere, as a 'blind hole' can often become a 'dry hole' as the air at the bottom of the hole prevents full penetration. Which is why I never use 'solid' dowells for any stock repairs. [/QUOTE]
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