glass bedding issues.

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Sasquatch, Jun 8, 2005.

  1. Sasquatch

    Sasquatch Well-Known Member

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    Last night when I was taking down the .30-06 for a good cleaning, I noticed that the glass bedding was flaking off. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif that might explain part of why the 300 yard group the other day was all over. the other two parts would be scope rings loosening and me, the shooter.

    is it normal for the glass bedding to come off of a synthetic stock? This rifle was glass bedded about 9 years ago. now I get to try it myself.
     
  2. Ian M

    Ian M Well-Known Member

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    Squatch,
    Should not be happening. If you are going to do the job yourself (more power to you!!!!) then I suggest that you check out:

    http://www.probed2000.com/main.html

    Charlie is a super person, has a great kit with super detailed instructions. Even simple enough for me to understand /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
     

  3. chris matthews

    chris matthews Well-Known Member

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    Ian,
    Gonna go against you on this one, buddy. Over time and exposure to solvents, bedding can and will deteriorate. The better epoxys we have today versus 9 years ago helps but nothing lasts forever....
    Skim bed it and she'll be as good as new.
     
  4. daveosok

    daveosok Guest

    If you can get your hands on some Devcon it is the best. Will not break down with solvents have tested shooters choice, hoppes #9, and a few others.
    It is so stable that you can even machine it and hold tolerences. The Titanium Devcon is the best but you can use the Aluminum or Steel.
    Here's the link Devcon and here's the actual stuff you'll want to get Titanium Putty.
    I have used this on air craft parts for repair in crtical areas as well as leading edges of wings for dents. Used to use it a lot on B-One's and they can reach mach 1.7 so youll be more than safe for a long time going with Devcon products.
    It's not cheap MSC has it and here's the link MSC Devcon putty
     
  5. Ian M

    Ian M Well-Known Member

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    Chris,
    I did not present that properly, I meant that something was causing that to happen. I have stocks that are over twenty five years old and the bedding is still perfect. On the other hand I have seen solvent soaked composite bedded stocks that were ugly black and punky in the receiver region after way less years of use. You are correct, the bedding stuff might be breaking down from old age or it might be a casualty of solvents. That is why I always put my rifle away muzzle-down (I only have one...) and use a fairly tight fitting bore-guide.

    I would rather have the old bedding removed entirely and a complete rebed, just to feel good about the situation. What the hell, a few minutes with a Dremel or Foredom and it be gone. Then I would send it to you guys and get a pro to do it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif It's hell when everything you touch turns to dogturds, just ask me.
     
  6. 257speed

    257speed Well-Known Member

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    I agree on the Pro-bed 2000. Charlie is a good guy, and I hung out in the shop some when he was developing the final product. It is the most durable bedding compound out there. Solvents won't touch it and it is very easy to work with. He also makes great bedding pillars.
     
  7. Sasquatch

    Sasquatch Well-Known Member

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    the bedding that is coming off was a skim bed job done by an ex army smith. I do not want this to happen again. Should I mill out more of the original stock and put more of the bedding in, or should I just mill out the existing bedding and skim bed it again?

    I have an instructional video coming from dad that he used to do 3 of his rifles and they all had drastic improvements, I am a little more thorough about things than he is, so I think I'll be able to do it myself. I might even try one of the pillar bedding kits.

    any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
     
  8. Sasquatch

    Sasquatch Well-Known Member

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    today I ordered the brownells pillar bedding kit #1 and dad is also sending me the rest of his acraglass kit with the video. I might have to bed the 17hmr just for practice.
     
  9. chris matthews

    chris matthews Well-Known Member

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    If it has been skimmed once you will need to hog abit more out- like Ian (one gun my foot!!!!) said a couple of minutes with a Dremel and remove all the old stuff and your good to go.
    USed Devcon- good stuff but kinda brittle, Pro Bed 2000 is good also, but stays gummy for a day or two, personally I use Marine Tex.
     
  10. daveosok

    daveosok Guest

    Yeah if you do not condition the surface correctly it can lead to brittleness. I usually use it where it is really built and havent had any problems with it cracking or being brittle but I can see if someone just lumped some in and stuck an action in, course just about any bedding compund would fail with improper surface prep.
     
  11. Sasquatch

    Sasquatch Well-Known Member

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    I took the stock into the shop and milled out the old bedding plus .150" out of the remington synthetic stock. What other prep work can I do while I wait for the kit to come in? What will need to be done just before I put in the bedding to insure a good bond so it doesn't crack again?
     
  12. Sasquatch

    Sasquatch Well-Known Member

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    discovered reason for glass bedding issues.

    went and talked to three gunsmiths about the bedding coming loose today. Two of them told me that it is because of the remington stock. They said it is actually plastic and petrolium based. being petrolium based it acts like a release agent and will allow the bedding to seperate from the stock over time. the third guy didn't know what would cause it. I guess that means it is time to order a stock that is a true composit or wood so the bedding will stay. I want to keep this rifle for the play days.
     
  13. chris matthews

    chris matthews Well-Known Member

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    Re: discovered reason for glass bedding issues.

    They are right if it is an ADL stock and not a fiberglass of some sort the bedding will not stick.