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Hunting
The Basics, Starting Out
Getting your natural point of aim on target!
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<blockquote data-quote="royinidaho" data-source="post: 1136558" data-attributes="member: 2011"><p>I gather you're shooting prone. If not, get that way.</p><p></p><p>The key is a solid bipod. Reticle should be made level/plumb. You pick your way of doing it.</p><p></p><p>I have solid not bending/folding solid leg and move/twist the rifle back and forth to get level. Then she's level solidly.</p><p></p><p>Next is the rear bag. This should be made of a material, at least the top, that allows the butt stock to slide with minimal friction.</p><p></p><p>The rear bag should be of correct dimensions for the angle of the shot. I carry a combination of 4 different sizes. Each is filled with petrified corn husk that is sold as bedding for hamsters and such. It's small, grainy and won't soak water.</p><p></p><p>One bag is canvas, others are nylon. Some round, some flat rectangles some squarish.</p><p></p><p>I get the correct number of bags under the butt stock so that the reticle is a little above center target. Takes some fiddling but gets pretty speedy with practice.</p><p></p><p>With the off hand grasping the sides of the bag squeeze until reticle is centered on point of aim. I'd recommend not ham-fisting the bag. Only a slight squeeze should be needed.</p><p></p><p>Trigger hand position and feel are critical as is cheek weld. Trigger brake shouldn't move reticle. Cheek weld shouldn't move the reticle.</p><p></p><p>The feel should be delicate. You're not wrestling with a skinny women, you're dancing with a full bodied woman. My experience is that this is true even for something like a 375 Allen Mag.</p><p></p><p>If using spring loaded bipod the preloading complicated the situation to where I simply quit using them.</p><p></p><p>Shooting from a bench is much more consistent but is certainly not "field" conditions.</p><p></p><p>This is probably not a universal approach but it works for me.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="royinidaho, post: 1136558, member: 2011"] I gather you're shooting prone. If not, get that way. The key is a solid bipod. Reticle should be made level/plumb. You pick your way of doing it. I have solid not bending/folding solid leg and move/twist the rifle back and forth to get level. Then she's level solidly. Next is the rear bag. This should be made of a material, at least the top, that allows the butt stock to slide with minimal friction. The rear bag should be of correct dimensions for the angle of the shot. I carry a combination of 4 different sizes. Each is filled with petrified corn husk that is sold as bedding for hamsters and such. It's small, grainy and won't soak water. One bag is canvas, others are nylon. Some round, some flat rectangles some squarish. I get the correct number of bags under the butt stock so that the reticle is a little above center target. Takes some fiddling but gets pretty speedy with practice. With the off hand grasping the sides of the bag squeeze until reticle is centered on point of aim. I'd recommend not ham-fisting the bag. Only a slight squeeze should be needed. Trigger hand position and feel are critical as is cheek weld. Trigger brake shouldn't move reticle. Cheek weld shouldn't move the reticle. The feel should be delicate. You're not wrestling with a skinny women, you're dancing with a full bodied woman. My experience is that this is true even for something like a 375 Allen Mag. If using spring loaded bipod the preloading complicated the situation to where I simply quit using them. Shooting from a bench is much more consistent but is certainly not "field" conditions. This is probably not a universal approach but it works for me. [/QUOTE]
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The Basics, Starting Out
Getting your natural point of aim on target!
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