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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
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<blockquote data-quote="Trickymissfit" data-source="post: 682760" data-attributes="member: 25383"><p>*get your hands on a copy of Fred Sinclair's book "Precision Handloading". It will teach you the basics of each phase of the operation.</p><p> </p><p>* see that you shoot a couple belted magnums, so i recommend you buy the die from Inovative Technologies. It's made to size the area just above the belt where regular dies won't do that.</p><p> </p><p>* buy good seating dies! Forster and Redding are the best. You don't need the micrometer head on them unless you plan on switching out bullets on a regular basis (you can add the micrometer headt to the Forster at a later date)</p><p> </p><p>* Most all full length dies are of similar design and quality. I'd just start out with something like a Lee or an RCBS</p><p> </p><p>* don't bother with neck sizing for at least a year!! </p><p> </p><p>* buy good measuring tools from the start. In this area you usually get what you pay for</p><p> </p><p>* Buy a good case trimmer. I spent enough money of trying out the cheap ones to buy three Wilsons with all the case holders</p><p> </p><p>* personally I use nothing but electronic scales, but others around here will swear by their analog scales. An RCBS 10-10 will do more than everything you'll ever want</p><p> </p><p>* buy a good priming tool from the start. Sinclair makes the very best, but a K&M is running right on it's door step. The rest are toys</p><p> </p><p>* Presses are all pretty much the same, but with a couple exceptions. The Lee cast iron press is a good press to learn on, and still last for quite awhile. I use a Forster which a lot of folks think highly of. At least buy a cast iron "O Frame" press. Being as your going to do magnum cases I'd also look for a press with some beef in the frame</p><p> </p><p>* powder measurers are a mixed bag, and I've used quite a few over the years. Hard to beat the cheap Lyman #55 with a Sinclair bottle kit and drop tubes. None of them do long grained stick powders all that well, so keep that thought in mind</p><p> </p><p>avoid reloading kits! In a year's time you replace half the stuff in the kit with better stuff. Keep a couple of log books on your reloading operation. I keep one for each rifle and another for the powder measurer. </p><p> </p><p>gary</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Trickymissfit, post: 682760, member: 25383"] *get your hands on a copy of Fred Sinclair's book "Precision Handloading". It will teach you the basics of each phase of the operation. * see that you shoot a couple belted magnums, so i recommend you buy the die from Inovative Technologies. It's made to size the area just above the belt where regular dies won't do that. * buy good seating dies! Forster and Redding are the best. You don't need the micrometer head on them unless you plan on switching out bullets on a regular basis (you can add the micrometer headt to the Forster at a later date) * Most all full length dies are of similar design and quality. I'd just start out with something like a Lee or an RCBS * don't bother with neck sizing for at least a year!! * buy good measuring tools from the start. In this area you usually get what you pay for * Buy a good case trimmer. I spent enough money of trying out the cheap ones to buy three Wilsons with all the case holders * personally I use nothing but electronic scales, but others around here will swear by their analog scales. An RCBS 10-10 will do more than everything you'll ever want * buy a good priming tool from the start. Sinclair makes the very best, but a K&M is running right on it's door step. The rest are toys * Presses are all pretty much the same, but with a couple exceptions. The Lee cast iron press is a good press to learn on, and still last for quite awhile. I use a Forster which a lot of folks think highly of. At least buy a cast iron "O Frame" press. Being as your going to do magnum cases I'd also look for a press with some beef in the frame * powder measurers are a mixed bag, and I've used quite a few over the years. Hard to beat the cheap Lyman #55 with a Sinclair bottle kit and drop tubes. None of them do long grained stick powders all that well, so keep that thought in mind avoid reloading kits! In a year's time you replace half the stuff in the kit with better stuff. Keep a couple of log books on your reloading operation. I keep one for each rifle and another for the powder measurer. gary [/QUOTE]
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