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Reloading
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<blockquote data-quote="Winchester 69" data-source="post: 344322" data-attributes="member: 8037"><p>Run the brass over your sizing die's expander button to make them round, but don't fully size the case (don't contact the shoulder portion of the brass). Check the first few to assure they will chamber in the rifle. A little lube on the inside of the case neck will ease the process. Then you're ready to chamfer, inside and outside, the case neck. On the outside, it's only necessary to remove any burr, not form a bevel. The inside needs a definite bevel, and this is where the VLD tool is beneficial. During all of this, you should be inspecting the brass for defects. Also, look for any major burrs on the inside of the flash hole. Big ones can be removed with a drill bit; around 1/4" will do. People loading for accuracy will buy a tool to uniform this area, and Sinclair sells a good one. If you're hunting, it's probably not necessary. Uniforming the primer pocket deserves similar commentary (probably not necessary). Your brass will need cleaning following these operations to remove lube and shavings. Shavings will score your dies, as will sizing w/o lube cause galling (except for carbide dies). </p><p></p><p>BTW, clean your new dies before using. Be sure the first case into a clean die is well lubed (except on the shoulder area. </p><p></p><p>After the first firing and sizing, check the case length and trim all to the same length. Absolute trim length varies with each barrel's chamber, but using the SAAMI length is simplest. Similarly, COAL can be adjusted to fit the chamber (although you're probably confined by magazine length); it's easiest to follow the SAAMI spec. </p><p></p><p>Since you've purchased the Redding Shellholder Set, I presume you understand the concept of <em>partial full-length sizing</em>, minimally bumping the shoulder back only enough to permit chambering. You want to have your brass's headspace set by the shoulder, not the magnum belt. </p><p></p><p>Simple enough.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Winchester 69, post: 344322, member: 8037"] Run the brass over your sizing die's expander button to make them round, but don't fully size the case (don't contact the shoulder portion of the brass). Check the first few to assure they will chamber in the rifle. A little lube on the inside of the case neck will ease the process. Then you're ready to chamfer, inside and outside, the case neck. On the outside, it's only necessary to remove any burr, not form a bevel. The inside needs a definite bevel, and this is where the VLD tool is beneficial. During all of this, you should be inspecting the brass for defects. Also, look for any major burrs on the inside of the flash hole. Big ones can be removed with a drill bit; around 1/4" will do. People loading for accuracy will buy a tool to uniform this area, and Sinclair sells a good one. If you're hunting, it's probably not necessary. Uniforming the primer pocket deserves similar commentary (probably not necessary). Your brass will need cleaning following these operations to remove lube and shavings. Shavings will score your dies, as will sizing w/o lube cause galling (except for carbide dies). BTW, clean your new dies before using. Be sure the first case into a clean die is well lubed (except on the shoulder area. After the first firing and sizing, check the case length and trim all to the same length. Absolute trim length varies with each barrel's chamber, but using the SAAMI length is simplest. Similarly, COAL can be adjusted to fit the chamber (although you're probably confined by magazine length); it's easiest to follow the SAAMI spec. Since you've purchased the Redding Shellholder Set, I presume you understand the concept of [i]partial full-length sizing[/i], minimally bumping the shoulder back only enough to permit chambering. You want to have your brass's headspace set by the shoulder, not the magnum belt. Simple enough. [/QUOTE]
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