Im new to this board,AND WANTING TO GET STARTED IN LONG RANGE SHOOTIN/HUNTING AND HAVE A FEW QUESTION.first off I shoot a browning a-bolt stalker in 280 caliber with a bausch/lomb elite 3000 3x9x50 scope. my question is is this gun capable of shooting out to 1000 yards if not what would be the max you guys would shoot with this gun.also I own a golden eagle bolt action in 270 weatherby mag would this be a better caliber than the 280?IVE ben shooting the 280 for 10 years now and im alot more confident with this gun however its the long ranges that im concerned with while hunting.I currently hunt in georgia and the property has 700 yards of open field to practice in.IM really looking for a starting point. thanks, axe
getting started,new to board
- Thread starter axe
- Start date
Help Support Long Range Hunting Forum
Axe
Welcome to Long Range Hunting.
You've sort of answered your own question about which of the two rifles to use... Stick with the 280...you know it better.
If you're just now venturing into this "Long Range" stuff and have no prior experience there are a few things you'll do well to re-think. IMHO you need to forget about light for caliber bullets and go to the heavy/ier High BC bullets...I don't know if this is something you've already considered or not.
First...get an accurate load for the rifle and brush up on your marksmanship skills. You'll be well served to have a maximum of a 1 MOA load developed. "Zero" your rifle at 100 yards... this means Point Of Aim (POA) equals Point Of Impact (POI)... reset your scope turrets (windage and elevation) to indicate -0-.
Move your target to 200 yards once you're confident that your POA = POI at 100 yards and you can "call your shots" well. Shoot the 200 yard target with the rifle still "zeroed" for 100 yards... once you're confident that you have a stable group measure the distance between the POA and POI at 200 yards. Divide this value (in inches) by 2 and this is your first set of data... your 200 yard "come-up" or "click data" Adjust your scope UP by this value... for example... if the value in inches is 1.5 you'll need to come UP on your elevation by 1.5 MOA or 6 "clicks" on a .25 MOA "click" scope. Once you have this completed fire on the 200 yard target again...you should be hitting POA = POI (dead-on).
Repeat this procedure for 300, 400, 500, etc and get the "come-up" value by dividing the difference between POA to POI at each yardage by the yardage value divided by 100. For example... at 300 yards your group may be 6 inches low with the 1.5 you had on for 200 yards. Take the 6 inches and divide by 3 (300/100 = 3)... turn the elevation UP 2 more MOA (8 "clicks") you're now sighted at exactly 300 yards... Verify this to be true by shooting a group to make sure your 300 yards POA = POI.... same for 400 and 500... divide by 4 at 400 and 5 at 500.
You'll need a lot of ammo of all the same specification(s)... Consistancy is probably the single most important item in long range shooting... Your ammo must all be the same... if you're going to shoot an accurate factory load you need to stick with the same LOT number for consistancy.
Once you get going you'll see it not too difficult on a good day. Out to 500 yards is going to be a "chip shot" soon enough and 1000 yards will be doable but you'll be in the "hooked for life" club by then and will have several different rifles to show as proof. If you're married tell your wife Boyd Heaton or Len Backus got you started... don't mention my name as I'm in trouble with enough spouses already
.
P. S.
Spend a few days going over some of the old posts in the "The Basics, starting out" forum.
Good Luck
[ 09-29-2003: Message edited by: Dave King ]
Welcome to Long Range Hunting.
You've sort of answered your own question about which of the two rifles to use... Stick with the 280...you know it better.
If you're just now venturing into this "Long Range" stuff and have no prior experience there are a few things you'll do well to re-think. IMHO you need to forget about light for caliber bullets and go to the heavy/ier High BC bullets...I don't know if this is something you've already considered or not.
First...get an accurate load for the rifle and brush up on your marksmanship skills. You'll be well served to have a maximum of a 1 MOA load developed. "Zero" your rifle at 100 yards... this means Point Of Aim (POA) equals Point Of Impact (POI)... reset your scope turrets (windage and elevation) to indicate -0-.
Move your target to 200 yards once you're confident that your POA = POI at 100 yards and you can "call your shots" well. Shoot the 200 yard target with the rifle still "zeroed" for 100 yards... once you're confident that you have a stable group measure the distance between the POA and POI at 200 yards. Divide this value (in inches) by 2 and this is your first set of data... your 200 yard "come-up" or "click data" Adjust your scope UP by this value... for example... if the value in inches is 1.5 you'll need to come UP on your elevation by 1.5 MOA or 6 "clicks" on a .25 MOA "click" scope. Once you have this completed fire on the 200 yard target again...you should be hitting POA = POI (dead-on).
Repeat this procedure for 300, 400, 500, etc and get the "come-up" value by dividing the difference between POA to POI at each yardage by the yardage value divided by 100. For example... at 300 yards your group may be 6 inches low with the 1.5 you had on for 200 yards. Take the 6 inches and divide by 3 (300/100 = 3)... turn the elevation UP 2 more MOA (8 "clicks") you're now sighted at exactly 300 yards... Verify this to be true by shooting a group to make sure your 300 yards POA = POI.... same for 400 and 500... divide by 4 at 400 and 5 at 500.
You'll need a lot of ammo of all the same specification(s)... Consistancy is probably the single most important item in long range shooting... Your ammo must all be the same... if you're going to shoot an accurate factory load you need to stick with the same LOT number for consistancy.
Once you get going you'll see it not too difficult on a good day. Out to 500 yards is going to be a "chip shot" soon enough and 1000 yards will be doable but you'll be in the "hooked for life" club by then and will have several different rifles to show as proof. If you're married tell your wife Boyd Heaton or Len Backus got you started... don't mention my name as I'm in trouble with enough spouses already
P. S.
Spend a few days going over some of the old posts in the "The Basics, starting out" forum.
Good Luck
[ 09-29-2003: Message edited by: Dave King ]
Mysticplayer
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2001
- Messages
- 1,459
Axe, lets start of by saying the 280 Rem will certainly do what you want out to 700yds. I have a friend who shoots LR (1000m) with me and his 280 is very impressive.
From his experiences, I would make the following suggestions: Bullets Hornady 162gr SST/Amax, 168gr MK. Powder: Re 19, H4831SC, maybe H4350. Primers: Fed 210M or CCI BR2. Cases: matched prepped commerical stuff (he uses Rem). Ammo must have min. runout (under 4 thou). For sizing, I love the Lee Collet neck sizer. Most seating dies are just fine. If runout during seating is present, go with a Forster BR seating die.
Rifle: assume that all the basic tweaks are done and the rifle will consistently shoot MOA or better at a min of 250yds/300yds. Forget about testing at 100yds. That distance will not show stringing. All you really need is to be able to hit a milk jug everytime at the max distance you want to shoot. BR accuracy is not necessary, just consistency.
Scope: Shim scope, if necessary, so that you have enough elevation to get to 700yds. Your scope is fine but will need turrents (contact Wideners) for elevation adjustment. I love Burris Sig rings but you can also get some shimmed bases (Farrel are great for the price). See how much more "up" you have left in your scope from a 100yd zero. If you have around 20 min, you should be fine as is.
Rangefinder: you are going to need one and I would look at the Leica 800 now on sale. The best rangefinder and will work well at 700yds.
Spotting and bino: spend money here. You need to see the game to shoot at them.
Work up a drop table (lots of info elsewhere) and practise, practise, practise from field positions/rests and conditions. 750 to 1000rds in your first year is not excessive. Doping the wind is your biggest hurdle. You must be confident in your ability to hit that milk jug (I make up swinging metal targets) in order to responsibly take a poke at a deer. Range a "rock", dial up your scope, judge wind/light, take one shot and call the hit. Keep changing targets and ranges to ensure you can hit close and far, also that your scope is repeatable and your drop table accurate.
You must have that confidence in your equipment and your shooting ability. Shooting LR is no different then SR. Marksmanship/doping the wind is everything.
You are now well on your way to happy poverty as you acquire more widgets, rifles, and components. Enjoy the journey. The company is pretty great around here too.
Jerry
From his experiences, I would make the following suggestions: Bullets Hornady 162gr SST/Amax, 168gr MK. Powder: Re 19, H4831SC, maybe H4350. Primers: Fed 210M or CCI BR2. Cases: matched prepped commerical stuff (he uses Rem). Ammo must have min. runout (under 4 thou). For sizing, I love the Lee Collet neck sizer. Most seating dies are just fine. If runout during seating is present, go with a Forster BR seating die.
Rifle: assume that all the basic tweaks are done and the rifle will consistently shoot MOA or better at a min of 250yds/300yds. Forget about testing at 100yds. That distance will not show stringing. All you really need is to be able to hit a milk jug everytime at the max distance you want to shoot. BR accuracy is not necessary, just consistency.
Scope: Shim scope, if necessary, so that you have enough elevation to get to 700yds. Your scope is fine but will need turrents (contact Wideners) for elevation adjustment. I love Burris Sig rings but you can also get some shimmed bases (Farrel are great for the price). See how much more "up" you have left in your scope from a 100yd zero. If you have around 20 min, you should be fine as is.
Rangefinder: you are going to need one and I would look at the Leica 800 now on sale. The best rangefinder and will work well at 700yds.
Spotting and bino: spend money here. You need to see the game to shoot at them.
Work up a drop table (lots of info elsewhere) and practise, practise, practise from field positions/rests and conditions. 750 to 1000rds in your first year is not excessive. Doping the wind is your biggest hurdle. You must be confident in your ability to hit that milk jug (I make up swinging metal targets) in order to responsibly take a poke at a deer. Range a "rock", dial up your scope, judge wind/light, take one shot and call the hit. Keep changing targets and ranges to ensure you can hit close and far, also that your scope is repeatable and your drop table accurate.
You must have that confidence in your equipment and your shooting ability. Shooting LR is no different then SR. Marksmanship/doping the wind is everything.
You are now well on your way to happy poverty as you acquire more widgets, rifles, and components. Enjoy the journey. The company is pretty great around here too.
Jerry
