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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
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<blockquote data-quote="liltank" data-source="post: 535082" data-attributes="member: 13275"><p>When your building a heavy gun, fluting is merely aesthetics on a bolt body. Now in the case of the light weight model that Savage is currently making, its weight reduction. For a 7mmRM you want a 26-28" barrel. If you plan to carry at all, I would suggest a finished taper of .820-.875. My rifle is a Savage with a B&C stock Medalist A2 w/28" finished at .814" It's a small shank taper from 1.055"-.814 to match an older muzzle break I had. 28" would be optimal in my opinion. My gun weights in close to 13#. going with a .820 is not going to limit your long range accuracy. It will only limit how many rounds you can fire in succession before your barrel is too hot. Big barrels for target type setups are more for heat sink purposes. But there is definitely an increase to stability with a heavier bore.</p><p></p><p>Tank</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="liltank, post: 535082, member: 13275"] When your building a heavy gun, fluting is merely aesthetics on a bolt body. Now in the case of the light weight model that Savage is currently making, its weight reduction. For a 7mmRM you want a 26-28" barrel. If you plan to carry at all, I would suggest a finished taper of .820-.875. My rifle is a Savage with a B&C stock Medalist A2 w/28" finished at .814" It's a small shank taper from 1.055"-.814 to match an older muzzle break I had. 28" would be optimal in my opinion. My gun weights in close to 13#. going with a .820 is not going to limit your long range accuracy. It will only limit how many rounds you can fire in succession before your barrel is too hot. Big barrels for target type setups are more for heat sink purposes. But there is definitely an increase to stability with a heavier bore. Tank [/QUOTE]
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