getting a rem 700 trigger apart

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by KIWI AL, Jul 23, 2011.

  1. KIWI AL

    KIWI AL Active Member

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    Aug 8, 2008
    i normerly have a good understanding of things mecanical and can nut things out my self,but recently got a bit fustrated when trying to get one apart the other week (x-mark pro if it makes a diferance)
    i tried punching the pins that go through the houseings but they wouldnt budge, is this the right attack or am i way off track?
    cheers
     
  2. Kevin Cram

    Kevin Cram <b>SPONSOR</b>

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    To remove the trigger put the safety in the safe position first. From the side of the receiver with the safety lever knock the rear pin out. Turn the receiver upright and the bolt stop and pig tail spring will slide out. Next knock the front pin out. Remove the trigger housing from the receiver. The sear and spring may fall out, so don't loose them. Your on the right track. Use a 1/8"punch, sometimes it may take a good tap to get the pins moving. They typically won't just slide out. Just remember to remove the rear pin first.
     

  3. KIWI AL

    KIWI AL Active Member

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    Aug 8, 2008
    it's the removeing of the trigger shoe part that's i'm not sure about. i'm wanting to order and install a jard upgrade kit to a spare trigger i have lying around.
    whats a good lubication for triggers. i had been using koil but it seems to attract dirt over time.
    cheers
     
  4. westcliffe01

    westcliffe01 Well-Known Member

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    Hello Kiwi Al...

    How are things in Taupo ? My parents moved to NZ last November and are finding things rather expensive in Auckland, where both of my sisters, their family and grandchildren live. I'm sure you could commiserate... Perhaps we could chat about your location off line ?

    Yes, kroil is not intended to stay on for long term lube. I would worry that its continued use could eventually strip any platings which may be on parts. It is a penetrating oil to free up seized fasteners and get them moving. I use Remoil, and the trigger mechanism can be cleaned with solvent and air to get it residue free and dry. Any light oil, preferably synthetic will do. Some use a high pressure grease, since they feel that the sear may be highly loaded. I would avoid grease due to what might happen to it here in our midwest polar winter weather. It is unfortunate that access to the trigger requires removing the action from the stock, but once the action is properly bedded, the risk of moving the point of impact is reduced when doing this. I would hate to get in the field and find the trigger gritty or sticky...
     
  5. Boss Hoss

    Boss Hoss Well-Known Member

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    I use lighter fluid on mine...