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Free Floating Barrels: Panacea Or Pain-in-the Neck?
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<blockquote data-quote="Litehiker" data-source="post: 1511114" data-attributes="member: 54178"><p>Interesting and detailed article. Lots of info there.</p><p></p><p>OK, My 6.5 CM Ruger American Predator was free-floated, as was the Boyd's Classic laminated stock I put on it later. It shoots 1/2 MOA with either factory or Boyd's stock!</p><p></p><p>BUT... I very much disliked the plastic Ruger factory stock's wimpy forearm. Using an "arm wrap" hasty sling support I could pull the forearm onto the barrel. So I epoxied an arrow shaft the full length of the forearm with JB Weld. Now it is much stiffer in all directions. So Stockey's advice to not mess with the factory stock only applies to higher priced rifles with quality stocks, IMHO. Mess with any cheap plastic stock you want. They are cheap to replace if you screw it up.</p><p></p><p>And in some ways, like pillar bedding or epoxy action bedding, you can mess with better plastic stocks like my .300 Win mag Browning A-Bolt's stock. I did it and improved the accuracy. Yeah, maybe a Mauser M18 stock is good as-is... maybe.</p><p></p><p>But I may use an adjustable pressure "pad" on the forearm of my .308 Savage 99 C lever gun. Free floating that barrel is not an option as configured. An <em>adjustable </em>pressure pad with a visible <u>indexed</u> brass escutcheon around the (very finely threaded) adjustment bolt can help give some quantification to the pressure applied to the barrel. Good for load development.</p><p></p><p>Finally, the excellent carbon fiber stock on my Browning A-Bolt Pro is well bedded and well designed so I would not even dream of messing with it - <em>or</em> replacing it. SAKO would be fortunate if their Carbonlight stock was as good. Jus' sayin'</p><p></p><p>Eric B.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Litehiker, post: 1511114, member: 54178"] Interesting and detailed article. Lots of info there. OK, My 6.5 CM Ruger American Predator was free-floated, as was the Boyd's Classic laminated stock I put on it later. It shoots 1/2 MOA with either factory or Boyd's stock! BUT... I very much disliked the plastic Ruger factory stock's wimpy forearm. Using an "arm wrap" hasty sling support I could pull the forearm onto the barrel. So I epoxied an arrow shaft the full length of the forearm with JB Weld. Now it is much stiffer in all directions. So Stockey's advice to not mess with the factory stock only applies to higher priced rifles with quality stocks, IMHO. Mess with any cheap plastic stock you want. They are cheap to replace if you screw it up. And in some ways, like pillar bedding or epoxy action bedding, you can mess with better plastic stocks like my .300 Win mag Browning A-Bolt's stock. I did it and improved the accuracy. Yeah, maybe a Mauser M18 stock is good as-is... maybe. But I may use an adjustable pressure "pad" on the forearm of my .308 Savage 99 C lever gun. Free floating that barrel is not an option as configured. An [I]adjustable [/I]pressure pad with a visible [U]indexed[/U] brass escutcheon around the (very finely threaded) adjustment bolt can help give some quantification to the pressure applied to the barrel. Good for load development. Finally, the excellent carbon fiber stock on my Browning A-Bolt Pro is well bedded and well designed so I would not even dream of messing with it - [I]or[/I] replacing it. SAKO would be fortunate if their Carbonlight stock was as good. Jus' sayin' Eric B. [/QUOTE]
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