diderr
Well-Known Member
I meant I shot at a bush at 850 yards and nailed it. Here is my 100 yard zero DB
http://img209.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pictureorvideo279yb6.jpg
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First day out long range hunting for deer
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http://img209.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pictureorvideo279yb6.jpg
NONYA
Well-Known Member
Well then you are just a worthless shot at does with sucking fawns,cant you find a mature deer without milking fawns to shoot at?As for your stupid *** sig line I have NEVER shot at a doe with twin nursing fawns,thats a FACT.Its a little early to be taking momma out,if you have to shoot one or the other just shoot one of the fawns,leave that breeder doe alone,the ones that have twins are too far and few between.Practice a little ethical judgement and lots more shooting practice along with a little better judgement on what you film and put on the net and you wont recieve negative responses,you brought it on yourself.BTW your paper group looks low and right,just like the shooting in your "film".
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Fiftydriver
Official LRH Sponsor
For some reason I can not get the link to the video to work so I have no comment there.
As far as your 100 yard zero target. I think your close but not close enough. Looks to me like your around 1/3 moa low and around 1/4 moa to the right. Hardly a 100 yard zero if that is where you left your rifle ready for the hunt.
Its a great group but its not zeroed, unless you were holding 1/3 moa low and 1/4 moa to the right......
At 100 yards it may seem "Close enough" but at longer ranges, this would result in some serious changes comparing point of aim to point of impact, especially if your going off a supposed true 100 yard zero.
This is one reason I do not care for 100 yard zero groups. means very little. There can be enough error in the zero to be off significantly at long range even though at 100 yards it looks perfect.
I always tell my customers to zero their long range rifles at a range of at least 500 yards, then dial back from there. IF you can zero at longer ranges, all the better.
Zeroed this way, you will be dead on at long range and even if your off at closer ranges, the amount your off will be insignificant as the error decreases the closer you get to your target.
As far as your 100 yard zero target. I think your close but not close enough. Looks to me like your around 1/3 moa low and around 1/4 moa to the right. Hardly a 100 yard zero if that is where you left your rifle ready for the hunt.
Its a great group but its not zeroed, unless you were holding 1/3 moa low and 1/4 moa to the right......
At 100 yards it may seem "Close enough" but at longer ranges, this would result in some serious changes comparing point of aim to point of impact, especially if your going off a supposed true 100 yard zero.
This is one reason I do not care for 100 yard zero groups. means very little. There can be enough error in the zero to be off significantly at long range even though at 100 yards it looks perfect.
I always tell my customers to zero their long range rifles at a range of at least 500 yards, then dial back from there. IF you can zero at longer ranges, all the better.
Zeroed this way, you will be dead on at long range and even if your off at closer ranges, the amount your off will be insignificant as the error decreases the closer you get to your target.
Jon A
Well-Known Member
Ditto that. I like to humble myself by doing timed drills at multiple targets at different distances. Not rapid fire or anything, but 4-5 shots in a minute, alternating between targets at different distances. From "field positions." Whether you're dialing or holding elevation, you need to do it, compensate for windage, take the shot then reset your mind and do it for a different target with different values. It's amazing how the time pressure makes things more difficult.
That's not meant to exactly simulate any scenario I expect to face while hunting, but simply getting the heart pumping and making you think/perform under a bit of pressure. If you're going to twist a knob the wrong way, forget what the marks on your reticle mean, not notice a change in the wind, etc, it's likely to happen under these conditions, not a lazy shot you took a 1/2 hour to set up for.
NONYA
Well-Known Member
What you missed was a video of him flinging rounds at a doe muledeer with twin fawns nursing,the closest hit was about 7 feet right and 4 low of the deers vitals,both rounds fired almost clipped one of the fawns.This video is EXACTLY what the antis compile together into their anti/propoganda montages.I guess it was removed by a mod or by the poster,either way its not something you want on a reputable hunting site.
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Fiftydriver
Official LRH Sponsor
I take it the misses did not hit consistantly together? If they did that would show a clear sight in problem. If they were scattered, it could be several things that went wrong.
-shooting in conditions that are not suitable for long range shooting
-Rifle is not up to long range accuracy. Just because it shoots well at close range does not mean its a long range rifle.
-The shooting set up was not suitable for long range consistancy.
-Shooter got a case of "buck fever"
There is no shame in the latter but shooting big game at long range is a difficult thing. Many will get a rifle that will shoot well on paper or steel at long range but when its a critter in front of them it all changed. Its totally different for all of us comparing paper to big game.
You really need a very clear and direct run down list to mentally prepare yourself for each shot at long range. IF you follow the steps for every shot, it will help with the "Routine" of making a long range shot.
Also, your set up is critical. I missed a big whitetail at 650 yards because I did not have the set up of the rifle right. The problem was that I did not remove the sling from the rear of the rifle but instead wrapped it around the rear bag. At the shot, this torqued the rifle and I missed.
Luckily, the buck had no idea where I was and ran out to 750 yards and stopped again. By this time I had corrected the problem and and on the second shot, the bullet landed exactly where I wanted it to.
As far as shooting a doe with fawns, I do not have much to comment about that. Personally I would not do it. THere are generally plenty of dry does out there to harvest. But, it comes down to if this was a legal deer to shoot at and I assume it was. As it was, its hard for me to tell someone what they should or should not shoot at.
It does greatly complicate things when there are fawns in the area if your taking multipule shots and missing.
Depending on the amount of food available, most fawns would be fine without their mother but I would worry more about mule deer fawns then whitetail as they live in generally much harsher areas and generally have fewer food sources and more predators. Still, if it was a legal deer to shoot at, that is all I will say about it. I personally would not but I can only worry about the way I hunt.
I think there needs to be some more long range shooting, a check on the rifles zero and possibly a look at the rifle set up for the shots.
I am first to admit I miss from time to time. Every time I have missed, I have been able to track back to the exact reason why I missed and it has yet to be the rifle or ammo...... That leaves only me or the set up which is generally the case.
-shooting in conditions that are not suitable for long range shooting
-Rifle is not up to long range accuracy. Just because it shoots well at close range does not mean its a long range rifle.
-The shooting set up was not suitable for long range consistancy.
-Shooter got a case of "buck fever"
There is no shame in the latter but shooting big game at long range is a difficult thing. Many will get a rifle that will shoot well on paper or steel at long range but when its a critter in front of them it all changed. Its totally different for all of us comparing paper to big game.
You really need a very clear and direct run down list to mentally prepare yourself for each shot at long range. IF you follow the steps for every shot, it will help with the "Routine" of making a long range shot.
Also, your set up is critical. I missed a big whitetail at 650 yards because I did not have the set up of the rifle right. The problem was that I did not remove the sling from the rear of the rifle but instead wrapped it around the rear bag. At the shot, this torqued the rifle and I missed.
Luckily, the buck had no idea where I was and ran out to 750 yards and stopped again. By this time I had corrected the problem and and on the second shot, the bullet landed exactly where I wanted it to.
As far as shooting a doe with fawns, I do not have much to comment about that. Personally I would not do it. THere are generally plenty of dry does out there to harvest. But, it comes down to if this was a legal deer to shoot at and I assume it was. As it was, its hard for me to tell someone what they should or should not shoot at.
It does greatly complicate things when there are fawns in the area if your taking multipule shots and missing.
Depending on the amount of food available, most fawns would be fine without their mother but I would worry more about mule deer fawns then whitetail as they live in generally much harsher areas and generally have fewer food sources and more predators. Still, if it was a legal deer to shoot at, that is all I will say about it. I personally would not but I can only worry about the way I hunt.
I think there needs to be some more long range shooting, a check on the rifles zero and possibly a look at the rifle set up for the shots.
I am first to admit I miss from time to time. Every time I have missed, I have been able to track back to the exact reason why I missed and it has yet to be the rifle or ammo...... That leaves only me or the set up which is generally the case.
