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Coyote Hunting - From 10 Yards to over 1,000 Yards
First Day Of Coyote Hunting
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<blockquote data-quote="Don Ward" data-source="post: 437606" data-attributes="member: 19118"><p>Here's basically what I like to do and it has proven to be consistently successful. #1 is getting into your set up w/o being detected. Easier said than done on many sets and sometime you can't avoid being visible to a big chunk of prospective area. Thats ok as long as your call will reach some spots that you didn't blow out.</p><p></p><p>Set-up with back cover if possible. After getting set, glass for a minute. You will be surprised at how many times you see a coyote, plus you pick up any deer, etc that may effect the stand.</p><p></p><p>Start with a howl and see what you get. Many stands will produce coyotes with just that or you may get a response so you have some more info on their location. If you aren't comfortable with howling, skip it but work on it at home or in the truck. Different howls have different meanings.</p><p></p><p>Start your distress calling. As stated above, with experience you will find your rhythm on timing and cadence. Less is more when you are starting out but in windy conditions I call a lot.</p><p></p><p>Minimize movement on stand, but don't be afraid to use binos between calling. Move slow.</p><p></p><p>Once you have one coming...let him come on his own as much as possible. The closer he gets the more he zeros on your calling and you risk getting busted. They are amazing at how they can lock on a sound but when they are far out its hard for them to get the distance correct. You will need to get one started again occasionally if they hang up way out and need some convincing. </p><p></p><p>Once they are in range let them stop on their own unless they are getting too close, heading into your wind or into a bad shot location. If you need to stop them, give a "WHOOP" and don't mess around. They will often lock on you and the clock is ticking.</p><p></p><p>Don't worry about doubles and triples at the moment. Just get some successful stands in.</p><p></p><p>I sit about 20 min if theres no activity but if the area looks good, I get a vocal response, or its bobcat country, a longer sit is in order.</p><p></p><p>When you kill one, do a few coyote distress calls immediately and sit tight for few minutes. This can yield another coyote or let any escaping dogs get out of sight before they see a human stand up. If I kill one early in a stand, I often just sit tight and keep up my sequence as if nothing happened. Its not uncommon to get more action.</p><p></p><p>Every stand is different and once you get a couple years experience, you will find a process that works for you. Try new stuff and make a lot of stands. Every successful caller I know has their own way of doing things.</p><p></p><p>Lastly, try not to educate too many. Ideally, you want them dead or getting out of the area without ever really knowing exactly what put their buddy to sleep so quickly.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Don Ward, post: 437606, member: 19118"] Here's basically what I like to do and it has proven to be consistently successful. #1 is getting into your set up w/o being detected. Easier said than done on many sets and sometime you can't avoid being visible to a big chunk of prospective area. Thats ok as long as your call will reach some spots that you didn't blow out. Set-up with back cover if possible. After getting set, glass for a minute. You will be surprised at how many times you see a coyote, plus you pick up any deer, etc that may effect the stand. Start with a howl and see what you get. Many stands will produce coyotes with just that or you may get a response so you have some more info on their location. If you aren't comfortable with howling, skip it but work on it at home or in the truck. Different howls have different meanings. Start your distress calling. As stated above, with experience you will find your rhythm on timing and cadence. Less is more when you are starting out but in windy conditions I call a lot. Minimize movement on stand, but don't be afraid to use binos between calling. Move slow. Once you have one coming...let him come on his own as much as possible. The closer he gets the more he zeros on your calling and you risk getting busted. They are amazing at how they can lock on a sound but when they are far out its hard for them to get the distance correct. You will need to get one started again occasionally if they hang up way out and need some convincing. Once they are in range let them stop on their own unless they are getting too close, heading into your wind or into a bad shot location. If you need to stop them, give a "WHOOP" and don't mess around. They will often lock on you and the clock is ticking. Don't worry about doubles and triples at the moment. Just get some successful stands in. I sit about 20 min if theres no activity but if the area looks good, I get a vocal response, or its bobcat country, a longer sit is in order. When you kill one, do a few coyote distress calls immediately and sit tight for few minutes. This can yield another coyote or let any escaping dogs get out of sight before they see a human stand up. If I kill one early in a stand, I often just sit tight and keep up my sequence as if nothing happened. Its not uncommon to get more action. Every stand is different and once you get a couple years experience, you will find a process that works for you. Try new stuff and make a lot of stands. Every successful caller I know has their own way of doing things. Lastly, try not to educate too many. Ideally, you want them dead or getting out of the area without ever really knowing exactly what put their buddy to sleep so quickly. [/QUOTE]
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First Day Of Coyote Hunting
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