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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Firearm reconditioning: How to remove rusty spots WITHOUT removing any of the blue?
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<blockquote data-quote="shortgrass" data-source="post: 647895" data-attributes="member: 24284"><p><strong>Re: Firearm reconditioning: How to remove rusty spots WITHOUT removing any of the bl</strong></p><p></p><p>I haven't tried them all, just a few. But <em>any</em> "bluing in a bottle" is nothing like a 'real' blue job. "Factory" bluing is done in a tank with the chemicals and water mixed, with the chemicals in such concentration that the solution won't start to boil until about 270 deg.F is reached. It then "operates", meaning parts can be place into the tank, at between 270F to 295F, at times depending on the the steel composition being blued, a bit higher. Besides being thermally "hot" the soultion is chemically "hot". Basic ingredients are sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and water. Each bluing salts maker has other propriety chemicals added to their mix. There are several different formulas that will "blue". As can be seen, just by the quick review of the "factory" process, nothing in a bottle will do the same job. The only way to "restore" the finish that came on your guns/magazines is to strip the current bluing and rust off, remove the pits that are under the rust by draw filing with a mill bastard file, buffing/polishing, and the immersing them into the boiling solution. The 'salts' that accumulate in the nooks and cranies then need to be "boiled out" in a tank of fresh, boiling water and place into a tank of water displacing oil. Basically, a simple process , not counting the polishing, but not a process to take on at home for just a few guns. The best professional bluing shop I know of is "Glenrock Blue" in Glenrock, WY.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="shortgrass, post: 647895, member: 24284"] [b]Re: Firearm reconditioning: How to remove rusty spots WITHOUT removing any of the bl[/b] I haven't tried them all, just a few. But [I]any[/I] "bluing in a bottle" is nothing like a 'real' blue job. "Factory" bluing is done in a tank with the chemicals and water mixed, with the chemicals in such concentration that the solution won't start to boil until about 270 deg.F is reached. It then "operates", meaning parts can be place into the tank, at between 270F to 295F, at times depending on the the steel composition being blued, a bit higher. Besides being thermally "hot" the soultion is chemically "hot". Basic ingredients are sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and water. Each bluing salts maker has other propriety chemicals added to their mix. There are several different formulas that will "blue". As can be seen, just by the quick review of the "factory" process, nothing in a bottle will do the same job. The only way to "restore" the finish that came on your guns/magazines is to strip the current bluing and rust off, remove the pits that are under the rust by draw filing with a mill bastard file, buffing/polishing, and the immersing them into the boiling solution. The 'salts' that accumulate in the nooks and cranies then need to be "boiled out" in a tank of fresh, boiling water and place into a tank of water displacing oil. Basically, a simple process , not counting the polishing, but not a process to take on at home for just a few guns. The best professional bluing shop I know of is "Glenrock Blue" in Glenrock, WY. [/QUOTE]
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Firearm reconditioning: How to remove rusty spots WITHOUT removing any of the blue?
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