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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Fire forming help
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<blockquote data-quote="MagnumManiac" data-source="post: 1491693" data-attributes="member: 10755"><p>I agree, necking DOWN is a much safer method than necking UP. Necking up thins the case neck walls, it's not a lot, but it's there.</p><p></p><p>I use the COW method, always have, the last time I fireformed 375 Weatherby from 375H&H I put candle wax in the case mouths because I was travelling 4+ hours from home and thought it would help stop any settling.........boy was I wrong.</p><p>After firing 20 rounds, I noticed bolt close was getting tighter and the next 5 rounds were also harder to extract. Knowing I only had an additional 5 rounds to fire, I proceeded to do so, getting stiffer and stiffer extraction........those last 5 cases all showed ejector marks and having no cleaning equipment I decided to 'clean' the barrel by firing a 260gr Accubond round hoping it would clear the candle wax by burning it off.</p><p>Didn't work very well, not sure how, but it was evident there was wax in the chamber too, causing the stiff bolt close/opening? I will never use wax again!</p><p></p><p>Anyway, when using COW, I usually oil the cases if they aren't belted, this way the case head meets the boltface very early in the burn and the forward part forms to the chamber WITHOUT stretching in front of the web. </p><p>If an AI chamber is cut correctly, there should be a .005" NEGATIVE HEADSPACE in the chamber, hence no NEED for false shoulders, jamming bullets or other funky gimmicks.</p><p>Another thing, using COW will not get you completely formed cases, an additional firing with a loaded round is generally required.</p><p>If you oil (lightly) your cases, your backed out primers will stop, or you can increase the charge weight until the problem goes away.</p><p></p><p>Cheers.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="MagnumManiac, post: 1491693, member: 10755"] I agree, necking DOWN is a much safer method than necking UP. Necking up thins the case neck walls, it’s not a lot, but it’s there. I use the COW method, always have, the last time I fireformed 375 Weatherby from 375H&H I put candle wax in the case mouths because I was travelling 4+ hours from home and thought it would help stop any settling.........boy was I wrong. After firing 20 rounds, I noticed bolt close was getting tighter and the next 5 rounds were also harder to extract. Knowing I only had an additional 5 rounds to fire, I proceeded to do so, getting stiffer and stiffer extraction........those last 5 cases all showed ejector marks and having no cleaning equipment I decided to ‘clean’ the barrel by firing a 260gr Accubond round hoping it would clear the candle wax by burning it off. Didn’t work very well, not sure how, but it was evident there was wax in the chamber too, causing the stiff bolt close/opening? I will never use wax again! Anyway, when using COW, I usually oil the cases if they aren’t belted, this way the case head meets the boltface very early in the burn and the forward part forms to the chamber WITHOUT stretching in front of the web. If an AI chamber is cut correctly, there should be a .005” NEGATIVE HEADSPACE in the chamber, hence no NEED for false shoulders, jamming bullets or other funky gimmicks. Another thing, using COW will not get you completely formed cases, an additional firing with a loaded round is generally required. If you oil (lightly) your cases, your backed out primers will stop, or you can increase the charge weight until the problem goes away. Cheers. [/QUOTE]
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