Experience with Duracoat?

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by Frank7mm, Oct 7, 2008.

  1. Frank7mm

    Frank7mm Well-Known Member

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    Has anyone used duracoat first? I did a couple of bases and they have set for 4 days. On the bottom of one I scratched it to se how tough it was and I am not real happy. Good paint with hardener seems tougher. Can you get it to thick? The can says it can be applied 1/4 mil thick to 1 1/2 mils thick. They say it doesn't wear but I find it hard to believe. Total cure is 3 weeks so I'll wait and test it again before I do my action. Anyone who has used this stuff please let me know how it worked for you.:rolleyes:
     
  2. gamedog

    gamedog Well-Known Member

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    Give it the full cure time. It's pretty tough stuff.
     

  3. MagMan

    MagMan Well-Known Member

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    Stick it in the oven per instructions.
     
  4. rtv900

    rtv900 Well-Known Member

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    I had a gunsmith do one for me and I love it. I dont know how he did the process but it was nice when it was done and I have enjoyed it. I have been thinking about having my coyote gun done as well. I am sure you will be happy with it in the end.
     
  5. lerch

    lerch <strong>SPONSOR</strong>

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    I painted several rifles a while back with it. it is really tuff stuff! do several coats of the colors. i was not able to oven bake mine and it still turned out very well. if you buy the cheaper starter kit i will tell you that the air gun/can system they send out isnt gonna cut it. its not hard to do your self but you would be ahead to invest in a decent compressor driven air gun. you can check in Gun Photos for some pic of rifles i was doing.



    have a good un
    steve
     
  6. lazylabs

    lazylabs Well-Known Member

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    I had a horrible first experience also. I just tried again with much better results. The first time I used thinner the second I did not. I also blasted the parts with carbide the second time vs glass the first time. I believe that is what made the difference, a rougher finish seemed to help. I also did 4 coats about 1/2 hour apart. I blasted it and then only touched the pieces with gloves on and cleaned the dust off with acetone in a spray bottle. I put enough on that the finish was starting to fill in the blasting pours.
     
  7. BigDaddy0381

    BigDaddy0381 Well-Known Member

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    +2 also use TCE cleaner to clean all the parts first.
    I love my rifle and it is some tuff stuff if done right.

    Let us know and post pic's of it when your done.
     
  8. Coyboy

    Coyboy Well-Known Member

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    I agree with the rest of the guys, it's tuff if prepped and applied per instructions. I've done quite a few barreled actions and stocks for myself and customers and it is working very well.

    Definatly aluminum oxide blast parts first. Then clean with a no residue cleaner/degreaser.
    I like to apply 3 coats on areas suseptable to damage.

    I do quite a few budget restoration jobs on old rimfires and shotguns, It's easier and cheaper to blast and spray, than polish and reblue.

    Granted if you drag your gun across some rocks or rake it down a steel fence post you may damage the finish, but bluing and some other coatings would be damaged as well. anytime there is enough pressure to scratch steel the surface coating is going to take a hit.
     
  9. BigDaddy0381

    BigDaddy0381 Well-Known Member

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    Well Said,

    The TCE cleaner is the best i have found that dosen't leave a film on the rifle.I use it when cold blueing with dicopan (sp) and it works really well with dura coat no bake also.