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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Epoxy bed scope mounts?
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<blockquote data-quote="NesikaChad" data-source="post: 266972" data-attributes="member: 7449"><p>I admit I've never once glued a scope mount to a receiver.</p><p></p><p>Be that as it may I have spent quite a bit of time around resins bedding guns and with my RC airplane addiction. The way I fly the **** things typically results in large quantities of 5 minute and CA being used afterward. Anyway. The above sounds like a great process but there are two items I'd like to comment on.</p><p></p><p>One, ditch the 400 grit. Resins bond to steel when it's etched really well. The peaks and valleys cut into the metal increases surface area and provides for a mechanical binder. I'd use at least 120 grit for this, maybe even 80 grit. Once you've sanded the action/base wash them in hot, hot soapy water and use a clean brush and scrub the snot out of the surfaces to be bonded. You need to emulsify any oil and lift it out of the pores. The heat helps to draw it out and the degreasing agents in the water will chew it up. Simple Green is great for this. Once this is done, then go after it with some acetone. I'd avoid using denatured alky because alky is hygroscopic; it attracts water. As mentioned, allow parts to dry or warm em up with a hot air gun or torch to burn off any residual moisture.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Ok, now onto number Two:</p><p></p><p>Resins work best when applied in very thin films. That is when they are strongest. It would seem to me that with "bedding" a scope mount to the receiver you are attempting to maximize the surface contact to mitigate any movement or shifting due to recoil or the occasional bump/bang. That being said I personally would want to tighten the screws to the nominal torque setting that they are intended to run at. In the case of a 6-48 screw that's about 5-6 inch pounds. It's around 8-10 for an 8-40. I'd do this to take advantage of the tensile strength from the screw and to keep the film as thin as possible. A .003" thick layer of resin will bond just fine so long as it has proper surface prep and the stuff gets mixed right. That is the last thing. Resins have to be mixed properly and this is where many fail. You mix it about twice as long as you think you need to. You gotta get the esters blended with the hardener to kick off that chemical reaction.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="NesikaChad, post: 266972, member: 7449"] I admit I've never once glued a scope mount to a receiver. Be that as it may I have spent quite a bit of time around resins bedding guns and with my RC airplane addiction. The way I fly the **** things typically results in large quantities of 5 minute and CA being used afterward. Anyway. The above sounds like a great process but there are two items I'd like to comment on. One, ditch the 400 grit. Resins bond to steel when it's etched really well. The peaks and valleys cut into the metal increases surface area and provides for a mechanical binder. I'd use at least 120 grit for this, maybe even 80 grit. Once you've sanded the action/base wash them in hot, hot soapy water and use a clean brush and scrub the snot out of the surfaces to be bonded. You need to emulsify any oil and lift it out of the pores. The heat helps to draw it out and the degreasing agents in the water will chew it up. Simple Green is great for this. Once this is done, then go after it with some acetone. I'd avoid using denatured alky because alky is hygroscopic; it attracts water. As mentioned, allow parts to dry or warm em up with a hot air gun or torch to burn off any residual moisture. Ok, now onto number Two: Resins work best when applied in very thin films. That is when they are strongest. It would seem to me that with "bedding" a scope mount to the receiver you are attempting to maximize the surface contact to mitigate any movement or shifting due to recoil or the occasional bump/bang. That being said I personally would want to tighten the screws to the nominal torque setting that they are intended to run at. In the case of a 6-48 screw that's about 5-6 inch pounds. It's around 8-10 for an 8-40. I'd do this to take advantage of the tensile strength from the screw and to keep the film as thin as possible. A .003" thick layer of resin will bond just fine so long as it has proper surface prep and the stuff gets mixed right. That is the last thing. Resins have to be mixed properly and this is where many fail. You mix it about twice as long as you think you need to. You gotta get the esters blended with the hardener to kick off that chemical reaction. [/QUOTE]
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Epoxy bed scope mounts?
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