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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Elk Build--.300 Dakota, Norma, or .338 Norma?
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<blockquote data-quote="aspenbugle" data-source="post: 666388" data-attributes="member: 6481"><p>I have the HS precision DBM - I like it. I can barely shoe-horn 3 in - it likes 2 better. It is great for just dropping in and out and seems light weight. I know they also have some aluminum/alloy floor plates that save weight (got that for the daughter's gun). It's not as pretty or nice, but saves weight.</p><p></p><p>Yes, I'm sure I could practice and improve the off-hand. Yes, using more of a high-power shooter position does help - you are right. Again, a wrap of the sling on the forearm helps settle it down a lot too. Is it achievable? Sure. Could I do better? Sure. Is it harder than maybe it should be or with a barrel 1# lighter? Sure. Pick your poison I guess. I must not hate it that bad or I would have switched barrels years ago. She shoots like a dream and I'm kinda emotionally attached I guess. I just know that is the weak-spot in our repertoire - but seems manageable and worth it. Trees and ground are great ideas and I totally agree. I try to when I can. Unfortunately, dropping to the ground the deer or elk usually disappearum behindum bushum or tall grass - seriously, too much stuff tends to be in the way. I've used a tree before, but again, usually they aren't close enough when you need 'em. That can even be tricky on the long shots you can set up for - where is a tree, or clearing that gets me a clear shot without limbs, etc.. My experience with the close-up shots is that elk and I often see each other about the same time - if I'm lucky and don't move a lot I have 3-5 seconds to send lead before the elk's internal timer tells it to run like heck. If I move much, for a tree or to the ground, the elk's timer shortens. If I get the drop on em, I can hopefully get to a knee or tree, but again much movement and the gig is up. Sounds like you are more practiced than I, and can probably make it work. Again, I get by - it just isn't easy or ideal, and most buddies that try my gun think it's horrible off-hand. Sure, heavy gets it to drop down good, it's the tracing loops around the elks vitals caused by the heavy muzzle that makes you work at it. I was just leary of going even heavier for off-hand, but I'm sure practice and technigue can over come a lot. </p><p></p><p>I guess the good thing in the end is a chambered barrel isn't near as much as the whole gun. If you try it and hate it - you can spend $600+ and start over with another barrel/contour/cartridge...not cheap, but not $2-3K either. Have fun!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="aspenbugle, post: 666388, member: 6481"] I have the HS precision DBM - I like it. I can barely shoe-horn 3 in - it likes 2 better. It is great for just dropping in and out and seems light weight. I know they also have some aluminum/alloy floor plates that save weight (got that for the daughter's gun). It's not as pretty or nice, but saves weight. Yes, I'm sure I could practice and improve the off-hand. Yes, using more of a high-power shooter position does help - you are right. Again, a wrap of the sling on the forearm helps settle it down a lot too. Is it achievable? Sure. Could I do better? Sure. Is it harder than maybe it should be or with a barrel 1# lighter? Sure. Pick your poison I guess. I must not hate it that bad or I would have switched barrels years ago. She shoots like a dream and I'm kinda emotionally attached I guess. I just know that is the weak-spot in our repertoire - but seems manageable and worth it. Trees and ground are great ideas and I totally agree. I try to when I can. Unfortunately, dropping to the ground the deer or elk usually disappearum behindum bushum or tall grass - seriously, too much stuff tends to be in the way. I've used a tree before, but again, usually they aren't close enough when you need 'em. That can even be tricky on the long shots you can set up for - where is a tree, or clearing that gets me a clear shot without limbs, etc.. My experience with the close-up shots is that elk and I often see each other about the same time - if I'm lucky and don't move a lot I have 3-5 seconds to send lead before the elk's internal timer tells it to run like heck. If I move much, for a tree or to the ground, the elk's timer shortens. If I get the drop on em, I can hopefully get to a knee or tree, but again much movement and the gig is up. Sounds like you are more practiced than I, and can probably make it work. Again, I get by - it just isn't easy or ideal, and most buddies that try my gun think it's horrible off-hand. Sure, heavy gets it to drop down good, it's the tracing loops around the elks vitals caused by the heavy muzzle that makes you work at it. I was just leary of going even heavier for off-hand, but I'm sure practice and technigue can over come a lot. I guess the good thing in the end is a chambered barrel isn't near as much as the whole gun. If you try it and hate it - you can spend $600+ and start over with another barrel/contour/cartridge...not cheap, but not $2-3K either. Have fun! [/QUOTE]
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Elk Build--.300 Dakota, Norma, or .338 Norma?
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