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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
ejector marks
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<blockquote data-quote="CatShooter" data-source="post: 1307202" data-attributes="member: 7"><p>YWIA <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p><p></p><p>The area of the case, right <em>AT</em> the junction of the case head/web, and the body wall is quite hard. It will flair out slightly on firing, but does not spring back when the case walls spring back.</p><p></p><p>Each firing causes it to flair a little more. Eventually, it is tight against the chamber wall at the rear of the chamber.</p><p></p><p>When it gets large, it will resist extraction because it kind of "Stuck" in place. You lift the bolt and the handle comes up easily, until it reaches the top of it's arc. Then it stops, and needs more effort to open - so you life harder and the bolt goes "CLICK" as the case breaks free.</p><p></p><p>In a normal chamber, a FL die will squish this little ring back in place</p><p></p><p>If you have a minimum chamber, which is typical with match chambers, or chambers that are cut with old reamers, the base diameter is small - at minimum SAAMI.</p><p></p><p>The average FL die is a little loose at the base, so it doesn't size this part of the base. So you get clicks and don't know why or where they came from - the case becomes a pain in the *** and you throw it away.</p><p></p><p>What is needed is a "Small base die" It will squish the base ring and stop the clicking.</p><p></p><p>If you can't get a small base die int he calibre you have, you can sometimes fake it - if you have a case based on the common 0.473" head size, you can use a carbide 45 ACP die, and size the base</p><p></p><p>I hope this makes sense - if not, just ask again.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="CatShooter, post: 1307202, member: 7"] YWIA :) The area of the case, right [I]AT[/I] the junction of the case head/web, and the body wall is quite hard. It will flair out slightly on firing, but does not spring back when the case walls spring back. Each firing causes it to flair a little more. Eventually, it is tight against the chamber wall at the rear of the chamber. When it gets large, it will resist extraction because it kind of "Stuck" in place. You lift the bolt and the handle comes up easily, until it reaches the top of it's arc. Then it stops, and needs more effort to open - so you life harder and the bolt goes "CLICK" as the case breaks free. In a normal chamber, a FL die will squish this little ring back in place If you have a minimum chamber, which is typical with match chambers, or chambers that are cut with old reamers, the base diameter is small - at minimum SAAMI. The average FL die is a little loose at the base, so it doesn't size this part of the base. So you get clicks and don't know why or where they came from - the case becomes a pain in the *** and you throw it away. What is needed is a "Small base die" It will squish the base ring and stop the clicking. If you can't get a small base die int he calibre you have, you can sometimes fake it - if you have a case based on the common 0.473" head size, you can use a carbide 45 ACP die, and size the base I hope this makes sense - if not, just ask again. [/QUOTE]
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