EGW mount shows gap after installation

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by SAPPER26, Aug 17, 2010.

  1. SAPPER26

    SAPPER26 Well-Known Member

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    I just purchased an EGW tactical mount for my Remington 700 SA in .308. After installing it with blue Loctite on the threads of the screws, I noticed I can see a gap when held up to light on the ejection (right hand) port side. The front part of the base seems flush with the rifle's receiver along with the very back part, but the front right side on the back portion of the base (if that makes sense) isn't flush. Torqued to specs and then some. Everything else seems solid and snug. Will this affect the accuracy and reliability of the rifle? Should I send this back to the manufacurer? Thanks for the help.

    SAPPER26
     
  2. Broz

    Broz Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like the ones I have gotten from them. I stopped using them long ago. I woul advise you to put a straight edge on top the rail too. If the rail is like the ones I had, it will be crooked as a dogs hind leg. This will transfer uneven pressure to your scope tube which I believe will give you adverse results and could result in scope damage. If the top is true when it is tightened down, then you could probably use this base if you epoxy bedded it to your action.

    I now use Nightforce, Near or Ken Ferrel, well worth the extra money spent.

    Jeff
     

  3. SAPPER26

    SAPPER26 Well-Known Member

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    Jeff,

    Thanks for the info. I just checked with a straight edge. There is a very thin gap on the left side in the center of the base. The gap would be less than the thickness of one piece of paper. If this would be acceptable, what epoxy would you recommend that could be taken off in the future without damage to the receiver? Will be getting a Nightforce for my 300 RUM. Thanks.

    SAPPER26
     
  4. Broz

    Broz Well-Known Member

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    I use Devcon and use a release agent like floor wax or kiwi shoe polish on the reciever. I have also used JB weld for small jobs like this too. After the epoxy is in place, try to snug the mounting screws down evenly and keeping the top of the mount flat and square. Then let it set over night and do your final tightening of the screws in the morning.


    Jeff
     
  5. SAPPER26

    SAPPER26 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks. I'll try some JB weld, should only take a few drops. It just wouldn't feel right to leave it alone. Any gap between the receiver and base would leave room for doubt.
     
  6. Broz

    Broz Well-Known Member

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    I feel the same way. Those 4 little #6 screws are not where the holding strength one from. It needs to be a good , solid, full contact of both mating surfaces.

    Jeff
     
  7. bigngreen

    bigngreen Well-Known Member

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    I use the EGW bases, mostly because of economics but I do just what Broz suggested. I goop them up and use shoe polish on the action, lube up the screws and snug them up to 10 in-lbs and clean all the ooze of and when dry I make sure the screws aren't stuck then I torque them down to spec.

    I was shocked at how much variance there is in the outside of an action, after putting a couple in a lathe and checking them out it is no wonder bases won't stay tight without bedding.
     
  8. Broz

    Broz Well-Known Member

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    This is very true. But when it fits on one side (left or right) and not the other, I am suspicious it is not the action but rather a problem in the machining process or with the soft material of the base that has bent in the process.

    Jeff
     
  9. nfhjr62

    nfhjr62 Well-Known Member

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    Give EGW a call and see what they say about your problem with base
     
  10. phorwath

    phorwath Well-Known Member

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    Very good advice by 'Broz' and 'bigngreen'.

    I would add: While the bedding epoxy is wet and not set up, the idea is to lightly torque the base screws down until the base just makes contact with the top of the receiver, so that when the bedding glue sets up, it fills any voids from uneven contact. You don't want to overly tighten down on these base screws, deform the rail to fit any unevenness on the top of the receiver, and squeeze out all of the epoxy bedding compound.

    Then - only after the JB weld sets up 24-48 hours - torque down the 4 base screws to final torque.

    PS: Place a straight edge along each side of the one-piece rail and make sure it's running parallel to your barrel - not pointing leftward or rightward along the length of the barrel - before letting the bedding epoxy set up. That way your rifle won't shoot curve balls/bullets... seriously...

    I use EGW one-piece rails on my Tikka T-3 Lites, but those receiver tops are perfectly flat the full length of the receiver, and the flats of the EGW bases fit on these flat top receivers like a glove. Never used an EGW on a round or oval topped receiver, but if the top of the rail is reasonably flat after your epoxy bedding sets up, I'd mount the scope and go for it.
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2010
  11. SAPPER26

    SAPPER26 Well-Known Member

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    Great advice everyone. I will start the epoxy job this afternoon. I don't have any floor wax or shoe polish, but have some bow string wax. Would this suffice or would it be best to get some polish? Also, which JB Weld would be best (Kwik or standard)? Thanks for all the help.

    SAPPER26
     
  12. phorwath

    phorwath Well-Known Member

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    Use the standard JB weld. Not the quick set. The standard bonds better, and has better strength, IMO.

    I know some guys that don't use any wax or release agent. They just let the epoxy set to both receiver and scope base. It'll come off of there with a little heat later on - if necessary.
     
  13. Coyboy

    Coyboy Well-Known Member

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    I don't use release on the action or base, If you ever need to remove the base, just remove the screws and smack with a plastic mallet.

    Grease your screws when bedding the base that way you can remove them after the epoxy sets, degrease the threads and holes then blue loktite and reinstal screws

    As was mentioned when bedding the base just make light metal to metal contact with one screw in the front ring and one in back usually the middle 2 work the best. Your not trying to squeeze all the glue out, but make a gasket so as to not stress the reciever or base.

    The problem with the bases not setting flat on the action is usually the actions fault. After machining the actions are hand polished on a wheel to remove tool marks, and that usually makes the back of the action "tail off" causing the poor fit.