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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Do you anneal your cases?
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<blockquote data-quote="Trickymissfit" data-source="post: 436622" data-attributes="member: 25383"><p>One brand of brass we checked in the lab showed a trace amounts of chrome and nickle in it (seems like it was Federal, but could be wrong). This kinda confirmed a couple of notions I had that Federal brass was much harder to form into other cases. Before that I was always told that it was because the case walls were thicker, but after cutting cases apart there was not all that much difference. I never knew anybody had the actual alloy make up for brass out there.</p><p> </p><p> I never said anything much different than what everybody else did around here, except for the temp. That temp works well for me, and have never tried anything above 500 degrees. Quenching cases in ice water was something I was told to do by several folks out there, as well as more than one metalurgical engineer. The idea is to anneal the necks and not the body of the case, and a quick quench is there to prevent further heat transfer into the case body</p><p> </p><p> Now you can heat just about anything hot enough to make it burn (even water). The temps vary per element, and somethings added here and there increase the burn temp of course. It's common knowledge that a bronze bushing used as a bearing will start to go south at a little over 300 degrees, and often will completely weld itself to a shaft at 400 degrees. Brass will not handle the temps that a pice of bronze will before the surface metal starts to let go. This is why they will often silver plate bronze when the temps exceed 250f. degrees. Whats this got todo with a case neck? It gives you a hint as what heat will do to brass or a brass alloy. There are brass welding rods that are made to melt at temps under 400 degrees (there is one that melts at under 250 degrees). These are used in special apps where you donot want to disturb the metal you are brazing (usually abrasive resistent steels). I would suspect that if you could look at the surface of a .015" thick piece of brass subjected to 750 degrees it would appear to be moving, or starting to go molecular. This is not melting, but when the metal is starting to let go. Yet I'd say the same piece of brass a quarter inch thick would be OK. I need to hunt up my heat treat hand book to see what they have to say on the subject as right now I'm on the verge of guessing</p><p>gary</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Trickymissfit, post: 436622, member: 25383"] One brand of brass we checked in the lab showed a trace amounts of chrome and nickle in it (seems like it was Federal, but could be wrong). This kinda confirmed a couple of notions I had that Federal brass was much harder to form into other cases. Before that I was always told that it was because the case walls were thicker, but after cutting cases apart there was not all that much difference. I never knew anybody had the actual alloy make up for brass out there. I never said anything much different than what everybody else did around here, except for the temp. That temp works well for me, and have never tried anything above 500 degrees. Quenching cases in ice water was something I was told to do by several folks out there, as well as more than one metalurgical engineer. The idea is to anneal the necks and not the body of the case, and a quick quench is there to prevent further heat transfer into the case body Now you can heat just about anything hot enough to make it burn (even water). The temps vary per element, and somethings added here and there increase the burn temp of course. It's common knowledge that a bronze bushing used as a bearing will start to go south at a little over 300 degrees, and often will completely weld itself to a shaft at 400 degrees. Brass will not handle the temps that a pice of bronze will before the surface metal starts to let go. This is why they will often silver plate bronze when the temps exceed 250f. degrees. Whats this got todo with a case neck? It gives you a hint as what heat will do to brass or a brass alloy. There are brass welding rods that are made to melt at temps under 400 degrees (there is one that melts at under 250 degrees). These are used in special apps where you donot want to disturb the metal you are brazing (usually abrasive resistent steels). I would suspect that if you could look at the surface of a .015" thick piece of brass subjected to 750 degrees it would appear to be moving, or starting to go molecular. This is not melting, but when the metal is starting to let go. Yet I'd say the same piece of brass a quarter inch thick would be OK. I need to hunt up my heat treat hand book to see what they have to say on the subject as right now I'm on the verge of guessing gary [/QUOTE]
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Do you anneal your cases?
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