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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Do you anneal your cases?
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<blockquote data-quote="Trickymissfit" data-source="post: 436050" data-attributes="member: 25383"><p>most folks I know anneal at 400 to 450 degrees to saturation. Five hundred degrees will probably extend heat into areas you don't what heat into. Six hundred degrees for sure when your looking at a .015" thick piece will destroy it. Nine hundred degrees is the start of the anneal process for steel (although on the low side), and eleven hundred degrees is about the norm. Most lead melts in the four hundred degree area, depending on the actuall alloy mixture. One of the problems with annealing brass or steel with a small torch is the heat concentrate, so a machine with a steady rotation would be the prefered method to get an even heat. Unlike steel where you quench in oil or another prefered medium (even heated oil is prefered) or simply allowing the steel to air cool in some cases (usually known as normalizing); you must shock brass to stop the heat transfer. Thus the use of ice water. Heat treating metal is not a guess work game, but precision science. Have you ever looked at something like a good 30-06 case and noticed the discolored blue area on the neck? If you take a good look at it you'll notice that the blue discoloring only goes about two thirds to three quarters of the way down the neck towards the shoulder. There's a reason why! Splits almost always start at the lip of the case neck, and thats the part that tends to harden first. You do not want heat to go all the way into the shoulder.</p><p>gary</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Trickymissfit, post: 436050, member: 25383"] most folks I know anneal at 400 to 450 degrees to saturation. Five hundred degrees will probably extend heat into areas you don't what heat into. Six hundred degrees for sure when your looking at a .015" thick piece will destroy it. Nine hundred degrees is the start of the anneal process for steel (although on the low side), and eleven hundred degrees is about the norm. Most lead melts in the four hundred degree area, depending on the actuall alloy mixture. One of the problems with annealing brass or steel with a small torch is the heat concentrate, so a machine with a steady rotation would be the prefered method to get an even heat. Unlike steel where you quench in oil or another prefered medium (even heated oil is prefered) or simply allowing the steel to air cool in some cases (usually known as normalizing); you must shock brass to stop the heat transfer. Thus the use of ice water. Heat treating metal is not a guess work game, but precision science. Have you ever looked at something like a good 30-06 case and noticed the discolored blue area on the neck? If you take a good look at it you'll notice that the blue discoloring only goes about two thirds to three quarters of the way down the neck towards the shoulder. There's a reason why! Splits almost always start at the lip of the case neck, and thats the part that tends to harden first. You do not want heat to go all the way into the shoulder. gary [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Do you anneal your cases?
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