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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
DIY $15 scope level
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<blockquote data-quote="SidecarFlip" data-source="post: 874466" data-attributes="member: 39764"><p>You never check a level against another level. That compounds the error because you have no idea if the 'other' level is accurate or not.</p><p> </p><p>The comments tell me you don't know and assumption is a bad thing....</p><p> </p><p>It's really simple actually.</p><p> </p><p>You set the level on a reasonably flat, smooth surface (like your granite counter top), allow the bubble to come to a rest and note the position of the bubble in relationship to the indicator lines and then rotate the level in the same plane, 180 degrees, swapping it end-for-end. Let the bubble stabilize and then note the relationship of the bubble to the indicator lines again. The deviation between the two, prior to rotation/after rotation is how much the level is 'unlevel'.</p><p> </p><p>The issue is, if the level used is not accurate, just a slight error compounds the rotation of the scope in relationship to the centerline of the bore quite a bit, so stating 'it's close enough' may or may not be true, depending on how far you plan on shooting.</p><p> </p><p>100 yards will absorb some error, past 500, everything gets much more critical.</p><p> </p><p>60 bucks for a level is cheap (wheeler). Mine cost hundreds and a ultra precision level is thousands.</p><p> </p><p>All well made levels for checking squareness and trueness in a linear plane are adjustable, that is, the vial is adjustable for inclination in relationship to the base, necessary because even precision levels need ocassional adjustment.</p><p> </p><p>A little machine shop 101 and why a 'cheap' level is cheap. Always remember that the accuracy of any installation of any optic is only as accurate as the least accurate component of the installation, in this case the level.</p><p> </p><p>Have fun....</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SidecarFlip, post: 874466, member: 39764"] You never check a level against another level. That compounds the error because you have no idea if the 'other' level is accurate or not. The comments tell me you don't know and assumption is a bad thing.... It's really simple actually. You set the level on a reasonably flat, smooth surface (like your granite counter top), allow the bubble to come to a rest and note the position of the bubble in relationship to the indicator lines and then rotate the level in the same plane, 180 degrees, swapping it end-for-end. Let the bubble stabilize and then note the relationship of the bubble to the indicator lines again. The deviation between the two, prior to rotation/after rotation is how much the level is 'unlevel'. The issue is, if the level used is not accurate, just a slight error compounds the rotation of the scope in relationship to the centerline of the bore quite a bit, so stating 'it's close enough' may or may not be true, depending on how far you plan on shooting. 100 yards will absorb some error, past 500, everything gets much more critical. 60 bucks for a level is cheap (wheeler). Mine cost hundreds and a ultra precision level is thousands. All well made levels for checking squareness and trueness in a linear plane are adjustable, that is, the vial is adjustable for inclination in relationship to the base, necessary because even precision levels need ocassional adjustment. A little machine shop 101 and why a 'cheap' level is cheap. Always remember that the accuracy of any installation of any optic is only as accurate as the least accurate component of the installation, in this case the level. Have fun.... [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
DIY $15 scope level
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