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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
diameter vs thread size
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<blockquote data-quote="J E Custom" data-source="post: 1534194" data-attributes="member: 2736"><p>When we calculated barrel wall using the recommended wall thickness using the barrel makers MINIMUM required to flute a barrel, I got recommended numbers from them of .137 to .150 for thickness from bottom of flutes to the bore groove. being safe I used the .150 for a base line. this is the reason I excepted the .125 in some less intense cartridges.</p><p></p><p>I believe that 1/2" 24 is as small as you should get for anything under 6mm. 9/16 works up to .284. 5/8 x 24 is recommended for .308, and 11/16'' for .338 ETC.</p><p></p><p>This can be altered by going to finer threads like 32 TPI. this will reduce minor diameter buy a small amount, but it is not as common as the 24 pitch.</p><p></p><p>Then you have to look at barrel diameter at the muzzle to see if you have enough over the major diameter + .a minimum of .020 shoulder to seat the brake against.</p><p></p><p>Many rifles were not designed to except a muzzle brake because of barrel contour (Diameter at Muzzle) so a clamp on type brake should be used. </p><p></p><p>I have seen muzzle brakes installed with .060 to .070 barrel wall thickness that shot off and other that did not so when you are in this area of barrel wall thickness. barrel quality and thread quality have a major part in failure or not.</p><p></p><p>The other downside of thin barrel wall thickness is that the muzzle brake can reduce the bore size or allow it to increase, I just removed a home made brake that had reduced the bore size by .003 thousandths.</p><p></p><p>lots of smiths are more conservative than Me and don't/won't install brakes without more barrel wall thickness.</p><p></p><p>So if you keep the thickness to a minimum range of .125 to .150 and have a shoulder of a minimum of .025 to seat the brake against you will be OK.</p><p></p><p>J E CUSTOM</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="J E Custom, post: 1534194, member: 2736"] When we calculated barrel wall using the recommended wall thickness using the barrel makers MINIMUM required to flute a barrel, I got recommended numbers from them of .137 to .150 for thickness from bottom of flutes to the bore groove. being safe I used the .150 for a base line. this is the reason I excepted the .125 in some less intense cartridges. I believe that 1/2" 24 is as small as you should get for anything under 6mm. 9/16 works up to .284. 5/8 x 24 is recommended for .308, and 11/16'' for .338 ETC. This can be altered by going to finer threads like 32 TPI. this will reduce minor diameter buy a small amount, but it is not as common as the 24 pitch. Then you have to look at barrel diameter at the muzzle to see if you have enough over the major diameter + .a minimum of .020 shoulder to seat the brake against. Many rifles were not designed to except a muzzle brake because of barrel contour (Diameter at Muzzle) so a clamp on type brake should be used. I have seen muzzle brakes installed with .060 to .070 barrel wall thickness that shot off and other that did not so when you are in this area of barrel wall thickness. barrel quality and thread quality have a major part in failure or not. The other downside of thin barrel wall thickness is that the muzzle brake can reduce the bore size or allow it to increase, I just removed a home made brake that had reduced the bore size by .003 thousandths. lots of smiths are more conservative than Me and don't/won't install brakes without more barrel wall thickness. So if you keep the thickness to a minimum range of .125 to .150 and have a shoulder of a minimum of .025 to seat the brake against you will be OK. J E CUSTOM [/QUOTE]
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Gunsmithing
diameter vs thread size
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