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Dialing or Hold Over?????
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<blockquote data-quote="goodgrouper" data-source="post: 196796" data-attributes="member: 2852"><p>My little "kink" as Kirby puts it is this: For ballistic reticles to work, the power level must be on a certain setting. Ok, so here's the mean thing I do to my students. I take them up into the mountains here from 8000 to 10,000 feet to do some shooting. The reason for this is because of the differences in mirage. As many of you know, mirage is simply the varying densities of air masses made apparent as sunlight transfers through them. Well, at 10,000 feet, the air is pretty thin and it cools off and heats up very quickly causing huge image disruption and some pretty nasty mirage and the only way to make it bearable sometimes is to turn the power down on your scope. Besides causing a blurred image, the mirage can also affect the parallax setting on your scope. So if you have a reticle that depends on power settings to work, you are forced to use a power that is either too much or too little to make the shot. This problem is unavoidable if you use drop reticles. Students often find themselves wanting to increase the power to see a smaller target, but can't becuase their reticle won't let them. Or they see too much mirage and feel the need to reduce the power but can't because of the reticle problem again.</p><p></p><p>Now, throw in a little angle AND mirage and the drop reticles become even more of a burden. A 27 degree angle for example changes which subtend to use and more than likely it will calculate to a very odd yardage. How many reticles have subtends for 872 yards exactly? So you go to your 850 line and hold a little high. Only problem is how much higher and how can you visually represent the difference accurately at that range? I have several sized gongs I put out at varying distance and ask people how big are they. Guys who can tell you rack size of a deer to within half inch at half mile say, "umm geee, maybe a 20" gong and maybe it's 800 yards away". Then they are shocked when I tell them the gong is actually 10" gong and it is 500 yards away. The point is that no matter how good you are at guessing measurements, you're still just guessing. I have yet to meet anyone who can tell me what 8" looks like over or under their subtend line at great distance. Or 6" or 4" or whatever. The bottom line is that mirage, angle, and human guestimations WILL throw a fly in the ointment of reticle aiming no matter if you're Kirby, Holland, Burns, or any of the other good shooters who use this method.</p><p></p><p>Now, Kirby and I are buddies and we can jab each other a little because of this fact. But I'm not saying he is wrong. He simply uses a method sometimes that by pure mechanics of physics cannot and will not work every time. I do agree with him however, that reticle aiming is faster. Especially for multiple targets at varying distances. But unless your hunting people like the military, I don't see where this will help you. In a dog town, I suppose it would be faster to use a reticle, but it's a dog town. The dogs aren't going anywhere and you have plenty of time (and usually plenty of ammo!) so why not dial? In a big game situation (unless your culling out the herd) quicker rarely is better. If my deer is moving, I'm not shooting at it anyway. I usually have all the time in the world to adjust a scope for one single target and lie in ambush. And when my target does come out, I can zoom my scope in or take it out as I please to make the shot a comfortable one.</p><p> And the more you practice dialing, the faster you get at it. I'll bet I could engage multiple targets at varying distances nearly as fast as a reticle aimer could. Fast enough for real world situations anyways save hunting humans on the attack.</p><p></p><p>This is just my view of the matter and I sure am not going to stop anyone from using a reticle to do their compensating. But I have made a few people try something else.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="goodgrouper, post: 196796, member: 2852"] My little "kink" as Kirby puts it is this: For ballistic reticles to work, the power level must be on a certain setting. Ok, so here's the mean thing I do to my students. I take them up into the mountains here from 8000 to 10,000 feet to do some shooting. The reason for this is because of the differences in mirage. As many of you know, mirage is simply the varying densities of air masses made apparent as sunlight transfers through them. Well, at 10,000 feet, the air is pretty thin and it cools off and heats up very quickly causing huge image disruption and some pretty nasty mirage and the only way to make it bearable sometimes is to turn the power down on your scope. Besides causing a blurred image, the mirage can also affect the parallax setting on your scope. So if you have a reticle that depends on power settings to work, you are forced to use a power that is either too much or too little to make the shot. This problem is unavoidable if you use drop reticles. Students often find themselves wanting to increase the power to see a smaller target, but can't becuase their reticle won't let them. Or they see too much mirage and feel the need to reduce the power but can't because of the reticle problem again. Now, throw in a little angle AND mirage and the drop reticles become even more of a burden. A 27 degree angle for example changes which subtend to use and more than likely it will calculate to a very odd yardage. How many reticles have subtends for 872 yards exactly? So you go to your 850 line and hold a little high. Only problem is how much higher and how can you visually represent the difference accurately at that range? I have several sized gongs I put out at varying distance and ask people how big are they. Guys who can tell you rack size of a deer to within half inch at half mile say, "umm geee, maybe a 20" gong and maybe it's 800 yards away". Then they are shocked when I tell them the gong is actually 10" gong and it is 500 yards away. The point is that no matter how good you are at guessing measurements, you're still just guessing. I have yet to meet anyone who can tell me what 8" looks like over or under their subtend line at great distance. Or 6" or 4" or whatever. The bottom line is that mirage, angle, and human guestimations WILL throw a fly in the ointment of reticle aiming no matter if you're Kirby, Holland, Burns, or any of the other good shooters who use this method. Now, Kirby and I are buddies and we can jab each other a little because of this fact. But I'm not saying he is wrong. He simply uses a method sometimes that by pure mechanics of physics cannot and will not work every time. I do agree with him however, that reticle aiming is faster. Especially for multiple targets at varying distances. But unless your hunting people like the military, I don't see where this will help you. In a dog town, I suppose it would be faster to use a reticle, but it's a dog town. The dogs aren't going anywhere and you have plenty of time (and usually plenty of ammo!) so why not dial? In a big game situation (unless your culling out the herd) quicker rarely is better. If my deer is moving, I'm not shooting at it anyway. I usually have all the time in the world to adjust a scope for one single target and lie in ambush. And when my target does come out, I can zoom my scope in or take it out as I please to make the shot a comfortable one. And the more you practice dialing, the faster you get at it. I'll bet I could engage multiple targets at varying distances nearly as fast as a reticle aimer could. Fast enough for real world situations anyways save hunting humans on the attack. This is just my view of the matter and I sure am not going to stop anyone from using a reticle to do their compensating. But I have made a few people try something else. [/QUOTE]
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