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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Dialing in bore for threading and chamber?
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<blockquote data-quote="Alex Wheeler" data-source="post: 1366603" data-attributes="member: 101859"><p>When it comes to holding a barrel, doing it without bending it is very important to me. If your outboard spider is holding the barrel against tension your bending the blank. A very easy way to know this is to loosen the outboard spider, did the barrel move? The v-block style chuck is the best way I have found. Its stress free holding power is excellent. I once accidentally forgot to tighten my outboard spider. I did not notice until I went to hook up my flush system at the muzzle. I had cut the entire thread tenon holding the barrel only with my v-block spider chuck. The bore was no more than .0003" out. Try that with a copper ring. The key to any method is to have the barrel where you want it before you tighten the spiders. They should be used to hold the barrel where its at, not to force and hold it. Use the screws to push the barrel, them back them off until the barrel is how you want it, then just snug them to support the muzzle end. I like to indicate in a way that ensures the chamber is concentric to the bore just in front of the throat, and the crown is perpendicular to the last inch of barrel. I feel this has helped achieve very consistent accuracy results for me. I have a little more info on my web site if your interested.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Alex Wheeler, post: 1366603, member: 101859"] When it comes to holding a barrel, doing it without bending it is very important to me. If your outboard spider is holding the barrel against tension your bending the blank. A very easy way to know this is to loosen the outboard spider, did the barrel move? The v-block style chuck is the best way I have found. Its stress free holding power is excellent. I once accidentally forgot to tighten my outboard spider. I did not notice until I went to hook up my flush system at the muzzle. I had cut the entire thread tenon holding the barrel only with my v-block spider chuck. The bore was no more than .0003" out. Try that with a copper ring. The key to any method is to have the barrel where you want it before you tighten the spiders. They should be used to hold the barrel where its at, not to force and hold it. Use the screws to push the barrel, them back them off until the barrel is how you want it, then just snug them to support the muzzle end. I like to indicate in a way that ensures the chamber is concentric to the bore just in front of the throat, and the crown is perpendicular to the last inch of barrel. I feel this has helped achieve very consistent accuracy results for me. I have a little more info on my web site if your interested. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Dialing in bore for threading and chamber?
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