David Tubb's Final Finish System

GlenShip

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Has anyone used this system? If so, did you see an improvement of your groups or other wise.

I would also like to hear the experience's from people that used the system on new/used properly broken in barrels. Good bad or indifferent.

From what I have been able to gather from this form and over at http://www.6mmbr.com/ and several independent site's like Innovative Technologies - Reloading Equipment and Affordable Accuracy they have had good successes with the product it really pecked my interest about the system.

What I am considering doing is fire lapping a newly broken in Savage in 30 06 and would appreciate any and all input.

Thanks Glen
 
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I had good results with the tubbs system. I only used 1/2 the 50 bullets and I could only shoot 3 at a time and the barrel got too hot to shoot anymore. I just shot 3 and cleaned in order to let it cool. Make sure you start with a clean barrel and keep it clean during the process. My gun is now much easier to clean the bore is defianatly smoother and my groups shrunk from around 1 3/8 to under an inch.

I was very nervous about trying these. That is why I only used 1/2 the bullets. Final Finish exceeded my expecations. I would recommend it if you barrel is hard to clean or you want to improve your groups.
 
I used it on a poorly shooting new factory rifle. It did improve my 100 yard groups by about 1.5". I was also nervous about trying it, but now I would not hesitate. If your gun shoots fine, there is really no need to use it. It does make the barrel easier to clean. If your factory rifle has been broke in and cleaned properly and still shoots poorly, it may be worth a try.
 
I used it on a Remington 700 VSF in .308 after I broke the barrel in. I hadn't ever shot it before, so I have nothing to compare it to accuracy wise. I will say that I noticed a big difference in the way the brush felt when cleaning it between the break in and after compound #3. I used all 5 compounds (I loaded them myself and used the load Tubbs Inc recommended when I called). The brush went from making a whining/screeching sound to being quiet and feeling like a marble on glass. Best group I have shot with it is a .279" group using handloads seated .003" off the lands and grooves (have to single load each round). I credit this to the DTFF system as it's a cheap, stock Remington barrel. It has never been glass bedded, but continues to shoot better than I can. I've never been happier.
 
I use FF on factory and custom barrels with no reservations. With custom/match barrels I skip the first grit series(first ten) and fire the last 40 as instructed by SSS. With any custom barrel just email them with the maker and they can tell you specifically what to do to break it in. They have used every barrel on the planet, so they know. With factory barrels I shoot the entire 50 according to instructions and I have had no issues. Factory barrels will clean up real nice afterwards. One thing not to neglect is throat maintenance every 200 to 400 rounds which I use SSS TMS. Shoot 2 to 3 every recommended interval and it will keep the throat smooth with no wear. The throat is where the heat and friction originates and it needs special care. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!!!!
 
I use TMS for break-in on every barrel(10shts). Then I do it again every ~400rnds.
I couldn't say it helps anything in particular. My barrels are good anyway, and my bullets are WS2 coated. But I do know it doesn't hurt.
 
My new Rem Model 7 in .243 came with an absolutely terrible barrel. I broke it in just like a custom barrel: fire & clean; fir & clen, etc.... After 100 rounds, it still wouldn't group less than 1.6" I tried everything to improve accuracy. As a final attempt to rescue this barrel, I tried Tubb's FF. While it did shrink my groups down to 1.3", it was not the miracle I was looking for. In defense of FF, I'm not sure anything could have saved this barrel. Although it was considerably smoother after FF when running patches down the barrel, I could still feel two tight spots. I junked the barrel and replaced it with a Brux.
 
My new Rem Model 7 in .243 came with an absolutely terrible barrel. I broke it in just like a custom barrel: fire & clean; fir & clen, etc.... After 100 rounds, it still wouldn't group less than 1.6" I tried everything to improve accuracy. As a final attempt to rescue this barrel, I tried Tubb's FF. While it did shrink my groups down to 1.3", it was not the miracle I was looking for. In defense of FF, I'm not sure anything could have saved this barrel. Although it was considerably smoother after FF when running patches down the barrel, I could still feel two tight spots. I junked the barrel and replaced it with a Brux.


1.6 to 1.3" is almost a 20% improvement and still is not bad. If it had been 1 to .80" it would have seemed more dramatic. I would have tried polishing paper to lap out the rough spots first before re-barreling. But that being said I am always looking for an excuse to put a premium tube on and BRUX are excellent.
 
I recently used it on a new, properly broken-in .243 that was shooting 3 inch groups. i only shot one group after the tubbs bullets, 4". I sent the gun back to mfr.

There's lots of reviews for these on midway, cabela's. Seem to be about 50/50 love 'em or hate 'em.

I wouldn't recommend it unless there's something wrong with your rifling. But I am by no means an expert.
 
I used the FF on a new 338 Rum REm factory bbl.

I regret not shooting it prior to the process.

It shoots a solid 1/2 MOA after the process but don't know what it did before the process.

Watch the June Newsletter. This topic may be addressed there.
 
I have used FF on all of my factory rifle barrels. .223 (CZ 527),7mm-08, .308. Ordering my next kit for a .243. Each Remington SPS I've bought, I intended to replace the barrel if it didn't shoot to my satisfaction. They have all exceeded my ability. All capable of sub-MOA with occasional groups in the .3-.4s when I do my part.
 
I don't think it's directly for or affecting accuracy, but rather indirectly.
It helps to reduce & manage copper fouling. It dresses up the leade area which often burns away unevenly. If there were a munged up crown, high spots would be removed.
Basically, it's for fixing problems.

It does work good for break-in to remove machining jaggies. Leaves a lapped finish matching that of the best barrel makers. This is why it works for aftermarket barrels also, -without hurting anything.

It's throat maintenance that short range BR competitors do using JB bore paste (frequently). This is similar in function.
 
I don't think it's directly for or affecting accuracy, but rather indirectly.
It helps to reduce & manage copper fouling. It dresses up the leade area which often burns away unevenly. If there were a munged up crown, high spots would be removed.
Basically, it's for fixing problems.

It does work good for break-in to remove machining jaggies. Leaves a lapped finish matching that of the best barrel makers. This is why it works for aftermarket barrels also, -without hurting anything.

It's throat maintenance that short range BR competitors do using JB bore paste (frequently). This is similar in function.
^^This exactly^^
 
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