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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
cva optima rifle trigger assembly
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<blockquote data-quote="calinb" data-source="post: 556002" data-attributes="member: 31242"><p>I wish I knew someone, Vince, and I can only gunsmith my own firearms. If I were doing it again, I'd just match up the sear surfaces and not change the sear surface angle. This could be done with only some patient work with a steady hand and a couple of stones (medium and very fine). This would result in a heavier trigger than my super-low 1-1/2 lbs. Of course you have to be capable of doing the dis-assembly and re-assembly and re-assembly requires an appropriate set of dummy pins (which I found at my local Ace hardware store).</p><p></p><p>I've learned that, if the trigger is very light, it can reduce the shooter's follow-through, needed to actuate the transfer bar when you gently s-q-u-e-e-z-e the trigger. I've read of this complaint with CVA triggers right out of the box from some shooters. A heavy trigger guarantees sufficient follow-through to use up enough of the trigger "let off" to keep the transfer bar in position. With a strong trigger pull, the high force opposing the shooter's finger is released on the finger and trigger finger motion is assured (if you're pulling hard enough to drop the hammer, then you're pulling hard enough to move the trigger enough to keep the transfer bar in position). </p><p></p><p>I ended up removing the trigger group again and milling a new transfer bar actuator arm for the trigger. It matches the position the bar more precisely. Now the trigger works perfectly and reliably but, without such a mod, I think any reduction in trigger pull results in less certain operation of the transfer bar. I suspect this is why factory CVA trigger jobs reportedly result in triggers no lighter than about 4 or 5 lbs. Anything lighter probably requires custom-fitting of a new transfer bar actuator arm.</p><p></p><p>-Cal</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="calinb, post: 556002, member: 31242"] I wish I knew someone, Vince, and I can only gunsmith my own firearms. If I were doing it again, I'd just match up the sear surfaces and not change the sear surface angle. This could be done with only some patient work with a steady hand and a couple of stones (medium and very fine). This would result in a heavier trigger than my super-low 1-1/2 lbs. Of course you have to be capable of doing the dis-assembly and re-assembly and re-assembly requires an appropriate set of dummy pins (which I found at my local Ace hardware store). I've learned that, if the trigger is very light, it can reduce the shooter's follow-through, needed to actuate the transfer bar when you gently s-q-u-e-e-z-e the trigger. I've read of this complaint with CVA triggers right out of the box from some shooters. A heavy trigger guarantees sufficient follow-through to use up enough of the trigger "let off" to keep the transfer bar in position. With a strong trigger pull, the high force opposing the shooter's finger is released on the finger and trigger finger motion is assured (if you're pulling hard enough to drop the hammer, then you're pulling hard enough to move the trigger enough to keep the transfer bar in position). I ended up removing the trigger group again and milling a new transfer bar actuator arm for the trigger. It matches the position the bar more precisely. Now the trigger works perfectly and reliably but, without such a mod, I think any reduction in trigger pull results in less certain operation of the transfer bar. I suspect this is why factory CVA trigger jobs reportedly result in triggers no lighter than about 4 or 5 lbs. Anything lighter probably requires custom-fitting of a new transfer bar actuator arm. -Cal [/QUOTE]
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cva optima rifle trigger assembly
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