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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Cutting dovetails, how hard can it be...
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<blockquote data-quote="Trickymissfit" data-source="post: 635456" data-attributes="member: 25383"><p>The oil pumps were bought directly from Bijur (Allemite) by Bridgeport. You can also buy the little lead ferrals that go on the end of the oil lines. These are simply forced into the holes, and held in place by friction. Bijur also sells brass fittings with a strait #10-32 thread and a 1/4-28 thread. I replaced many of the fittings in the saddle and table with these. Most places that sell hydraulic and pneumatic valves and pumps also carry hose. If you go with steel line be prepaired to pay a little more. I recommend Nylicoil plasctic tubing with the standard wall thickness (about .03"). The 1/8th" and 5/32" stuff will handle 1000psi, so you don't need to worry about blowing a line. Bridgeport recommends Trueslide 300 oil (think it comes from Standard Oil which is now BP), but there is much better oil out there these days. 300 is a high parafin based oil, and I've seen it literally jell inside oil lines. Look for a non parafin equivalent (it's out there). Donot use automotive oils, or hydraulic oils!</p><p> </p><p>Take a flashlight and look at the ball screw under the table. Is it black? Or does it look like it has a ground finish? If it's black you probably will see a groove about .025" wide on the center of the thread O.D. That means you have a roll thread screw. These are soft, and considered to be non precision. A ground screw should at least have some oil squirted on the thread O.D. every our of useage. I've seen Bridgeports with acme screws and both kinds of ball screws, but most come with an acme. If you need a new ball screw, the best out there is from Lead Screw International in Michigan. He sells both roll thread and precision screws. I could make you a list of shops to stay away from in this area, so beware.</p><p> </p><p>gary</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Trickymissfit, post: 635456, member: 25383"] The oil pumps were bought directly from Bijur (Allemite) by Bridgeport. You can also buy the little lead ferrals that go on the end of the oil lines. These are simply forced into the holes, and held in place by friction. Bijur also sells brass fittings with a strait #10-32 thread and a 1/4-28 thread. I replaced many of the fittings in the saddle and table with these. Most places that sell hydraulic and pneumatic valves and pumps also carry hose. If you go with steel line be prepaired to pay a little more. I recommend Nylicoil plasctic tubing with the standard wall thickness (about .03"). The 1/8th" and 5/32" stuff will handle 1000psi, so you don't need to worry about blowing a line. Bridgeport recommends Trueslide 300 oil (think it comes from Standard Oil which is now BP), but there is much better oil out there these days. 300 is a high parafin based oil, and I've seen it literally jell inside oil lines. Look for a non parafin equivalent (it's out there). Donot use automotive oils, or hydraulic oils! Take a flashlight and look at the ball screw under the table. Is it black? Or does it look like it has a ground finish? If it's black you probably will see a groove about .025" wide on the center of the thread O.D. That means you have a roll thread screw. These are soft, and considered to be non precision. A ground screw should at least have some oil squirted on the thread O.D. every our of useage. I've seen Bridgeports with acme screws and both kinds of ball screws, but most come with an acme. If you need a new ball screw, the best out there is from Lead Screw International in Michigan. He sells both roll thread and precision screws. I could make you a list of shops to stay away from in this area, so beware. gary [/QUOTE]
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Cutting dovetails, how hard can it be...
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