Cost effective "Accurizing" of Stock Weatherby

FullCurlHunter

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Apr 5, 2006
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I have a Weatherby Mk V Ultra lightweight in 300 weatherby. I have a lot of money in brass, powders, bullets, dies, rings and th scope not to mention the rifle.

The rifle shoots average (1.5" groups at 100) but is not absolultey consistent.

What are the top 5 things in each of your opinions that you can do to a stock rifle to greatly increase its accuracy without pumping a ton of money into it?

(Please dont tell me to sell it...I am looking for ways to imporve my current rifle in regards to its accuracy)

Thanks!
 
Bed the barrel lug and the first 2" of the barrel and the rear tang area of the action and free float the barrel from the bedding out.

Change the trigger spring or cut off one coil to get the pull down to 2 pounds.

Bolt on a zeiss scope.

Also scrub the crap out of the barrel and remove ALL the copper. If you have been shooting TSX's in it it needs it.

I own several Wby's and anymore I do this before I ever take one to the range.

JMO

Jeff
 
Like mentioned before , a good bedding job would be the first thing even though the stock has the aluminum bedding block (if its HS) , second would be the trigger work , the stock weatherby trigger can be tuned down to a very usable hunting weight without cutting the spring , which I'd reccomend getting a new lighter spring rather than cutting one. Also have the the crowm recut true to the bore may help some , some factory guns have a slightly lopp sidded crown or your crown may have a bur in it , it doesen't take much to ruin accuracy.

Thats about the extent that I would go , possibley having the barrel set back 1/8" and rechambered with a reamer that doesen't have a mile of free bore.This does two things , it eliminates the freebore some and also will help to straiten out the chamber which may be a little crooked , providing that the chamber is recut properly
 
I have a bad habit of buying bolt action rifles new and used, then doing general accurizing, witch includes what ever I can do myself. Once I get it shooting I tend to sell them pretty quick to get to the next project. Some I get shooting really well others need more work than I am capable of. What I do first is strip all the accessories off (ie scope, rings, mounts etc.). I take out the action and disassemble the bolt if I can. At this point I inspect all working parts and clean the heck out of everything. I have a home made foul out electronic barrel cleaner. It works wonders on those really bad barrels. At this point I lube and reassemble everything. Work up the best hand loads I can, you can't get the most out of a rifle without hand loading tuned loads. I strip off the scope and mounts ect. because it's fun and when I reassemble everything I know they are mounted right and tight. It is amazing how many rifles start to shoot great at this point. If that doesn't work then I check for any touchy binding spots as well as check to make sure the scope mount and action screws aren't to long, especially if they look like they were replaced at some point, shoot again. If I am not there, then I free float the barrel and bed the action, might as well do both well the action is out again. Shoot again, if still not there I place a pressure point at the end of the stock adjusting it back and forth. If it still won't shoot I try Tubbs final finish fire lapping. If nothing helped I bring it to a smith, or just sell it with a warning of accuracy issues. What I find that gives the most accuracy gain is a good cleaning, using reloads, bedding the action and floating the barrel, all of witch is very cheap if you can do it yourself. Another point is to have a good trigger pull but I don't touch that one myself unless it is an adjustable trigger, I have a good trigger smith I use for that.
 
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I work only on Weatherby Rifles and pistols. They have the finest bolt face and from the factory the multiple lugs hold more true than any Remington. To get this to shoot several things should be done. Skim Bed the action, Make sure the pressure points are removed from the forearm, and greatly free float the barrel. third is bullet choice. Many gunsmiths that are great builders get this wrong in a Weatherby. I have not found a bullet that shoots better than a Barnes in a freebored Weatherby. Second choice would be between the GMX and Accubond. Bullet must be compatible with the twist rate. If a person must shoot the Berger and other high zoot bullets that are soft and have thin soft jackets you must set the barrel back and remove the freebore. Weatherby did use some pencil stick barrels. On these you must stress relieve them and a Que tuner works very well. I might add that the first two responses were very accurate from people that know Weatherbys. If one does this you will have a great shooter. As far as the trigger goes buy a Jard and cut one coil off. Great trigger for paper. Touchy for hunting. NOT RECOMMENDED for novices!
 
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Don't take this the wrong way, but shooting a 300 weatherby out of an ultra light.......might be flinching a bit. not saying this is all of the problem, but if it's inconsistent, could be some shooter form. I had a problem when I went to a 300 win mag because it was more recoil than I was used to. It really highlights any small differences in shooter form, due to the more recoil. not sure if you're shooting off a "sled" or what, just pointing that out.
Nimrod
 
Hahahahaha, I was thinking the same thing!!!!! lightbulb

I'm pretty sure they mean real well! Sometimes "we" get too excited to share and help and "we" overlook the date/time of applicability/sensitivity as it relates to the OP. The good thing is that there might be others in similar situation that can use the information.

Cheers!
 
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