I know Iam opening a can of worms here but what the heck! Whats better sweets 7.62 or Barnes CR 10 on copper fouling( Pros and cons of both are welcome, Iam still not sure.)? And how about that pesky carbon buildup. Read stories it becomes harder than the steel it attaches itself to. Have used different types of solvent, seems some are better than others. Havent used any of the foam type all in one wonder cleaners yet but am open to suggestion. I always try to clean my weapons after every range shoot or hunting trip, just want some input on what you guys think. Lots of good knowledge here, glad I joined this site. But I think a clean barrel is an accurate barrel. Understand that bench shooters expect the first round out of a clean barrel to print in the record group, why shouldnt we? I follow a good break in practise, so what do you do after that. I'll take notes and compare to mine and see what we come up with! Thanks everyone!!!!
Copper and powder questions???
- Thread starter kolt1
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nralifer
Well-Known Member
First, a disclaimer. I have no commercial or financial interests in the products I am about to comment on. That said, I have gone to using Bore Tech carbon and copper solvents as well as Kroil penetrating oil because they have no ammonia to dissolve copper deposits. Ammonia in high concentration is believed to be hard on barrels. The Bore Tech copper solvent can be left in the barrel overnight if needed to dissolve pugnacious copper deposits. Their carbon solvent works fast and it has some copper dissolution properties of its own. I like their non-brass patch jigs as well, as there is no blue color imparted to the patch when dissolving copper deposits.
Another vote for Bore Tech. Ammonia free is a big deal for me, especially with chromoly barrels.
I think over-cleaning is an issue when chasing accuracy. What the bench rest crowd does can border along the lines of superstition. In the context of a field rifle; some copper should be left in the bore to maintain accuracy, if you're cleaning after every shooting session and going into the next one with a clean bore; you'll be chasing your zero. Every barrel needs to foul to a certain point to maintain a consistent point of impact and then it should be left alone for 100-200 rounds. As far as barrel break in goes, a barrel is actually broken in after 150-200 rounds; at which point it will "speed up" or have an increase in velocity. When a barrel speeds up the load needs reworked. As far as a break in procedure; cleaning in between the first 10 shots is the most anyone should do and I don't believe it to be necessary. Several of my customers and other accomplished shooters will go out and shoot 200 rounds in their first range trip with a new barrel and get it sped up; then they'll start load work and building a ballistic profile. I don't have time to shoot that much in a session, so I'll do about 50 rounds per until I get the velocity to flatten out.
I use Hoppes #9 and Denatured Alcohol, Hoppes has a very small amount of ammonia which removes loose copper. I then use the denatured alcohol to degrease the bore of any solvent left behind, for long term storage; a thin coat of oil like kroil, free all or rem oil is ideal for rust prevention. After a routine cleaning it should only take one to two fouling shots to get back to zero. If you are deep cleaning every time it could take up to 12 shots before the barrel settles back into a consistent point of impact. I would never go into a hunt or match with a fresh clean bore.
I use Hoppes #9 and Denatured Alcohol, Hoppes has a very small amount of ammonia which removes loose copper. I then use the denatured alcohol to degrease the bore of any solvent left behind, for long term storage; a thin coat of oil like kroil, free all or rem oil is ideal for rust prevention. After a routine cleaning it should only take one to two fouling shots to get back to zero. If you are deep cleaning every time it could take up to 12 shots before the barrel settles back into a consistent point of impact. I would never go into a hunt or match with a fresh clean bore.
nralifer
Well-Known Member
The idea of never using a fresh clean bore on a hunt or match is very sound. For a hunt, if the load you developed for the hunt shoots at the point of aim with a cold barrel why clean the barrel since you are not likely to need more than a few subsequent shots on the hunt anyway.
Hugnot
Well-Known Member
Big market for miracle solvents! Roundup lots of fouled barrels for cleaning.
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Ammonia can damage some finishes.
For stubborn cleaning, copper, carbon I like JB paste. In extreme situations on a swab in a drill.
I have the Outters electric and that is great for heavy copper or lead cleaning. Set it up and forget it.
A friend uses brake cleaner for carbon build up or plastic in shotgun forcing cones. - caution on finishes.
Get a bore scope so you know what you have (Amazon about $60.) - mine uses computer monitor to display image.
left to right:
a clean barrel
dirty barrel with gas hole
beginning of lands
For stubborn cleaning, copper, carbon I like JB paste. In extreme situations on a swab in a drill.
I have the Outters electric and that is great for heavy copper or lead cleaning. Set it up and forget it.
A friend uses brake cleaner for carbon build up or plastic in shotgun forcing cones. - caution on finishes.
Get a bore scope so you know what you have (Amazon about $60.) - mine uses computer monitor to display image.
left to right:
a clean barrel
dirty barrel with gas hole
beginning of lands
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