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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Concentricity/Neck Turning/Culling Cases:
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<blockquote data-quote="misterc01" data-source="post: 1644860" data-attributes="member: 109160"><p>So far in my adventures in reloading of about 1 1/2 years, I follow a process, and use a checklist to ensure I do not skip steps that so far works, and is modified as I learn more. New cases: Clean neck. Full length resize. Run through ultra-sonic cleaner to remove case lube. Measure length of case, trim if needed to get all to same and recommended length. Measure neck thickness, turn if not all the same, turn all, to same and recommended thickness. De-burr and Chamfer regardless - VLD tool. Uniform Primer pockets. De-burr primer pocket. Insert match primer. Load powder. Seat bullet with micrometer die. Check for concentricity, adjust if necessary to .002" or less - usually nearer to .0005. Put in holder. I work normally in 100 case batches. Batches are all tracked. For fired brass, the only changes/different steps: Tumble. check cases for any defects from firing - cull. Clean neck. De-cap. Measure case length, trim, de-burr, chamfer if needed. Neck size with match-grade bushing die. clean primer pocket. The rest of the process is the same as for new brass. After about 5 firing cycles, anneal. That is pretty much the same for all calibers I reload, and I am primarily reloading to get precision reloads. ALL the info prior to my post is extremely useful, and YOU can decide what steps or methods you want to adopt or not. The quality of the tools are paramount, and as I can afford more premium brass, I add that into the equation, in 100 case batches. And like most posting here, as I learn(ed) more, I have items I wish I had not spent the $ on, BUT they all contributed to the learning curve. In the end, YOU are doing the reloading, and if you load safely, following best practices, read and research, YOU should eventually get to where you have consistent ammunition you enjoy shooting. Good luck!!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="misterc01, post: 1644860, member: 109160"] So far in my adventures in reloading of about 1 1/2 years, I follow a process, and use a checklist to ensure I do not skip steps that so far works, and is modified as I learn more. New cases: Clean neck. Full length resize. Run through ultra-sonic cleaner to remove case lube. Measure length of case, trim if needed to get all to same and recommended length. Measure neck thickness, turn if not all the same, turn all, to same and recommended thickness. De-burr and Chamfer regardless - VLD tool. Uniform Primer pockets. De-burr primer pocket. Insert match primer. Load powder. Seat bullet with micrometer die. Check for concentricity, adjust if necessary to .002" or less - usually nearer to .0005. Put in holder. I work normally in 100 case batches. Batches are all tracked. For fired brass, the only changes/different steps: Tumble. check cases for any defects from firing - cull. Clean neck. De-cap. Measure case length, trim, de-burr, chamfer if needed. Neck size with match-grade bushing die. clean primer pocket. The rest of the process is the same as for new brass. After about 5 firing cycles, anneal. That is pretty much the same for all calibers I reload, and I am primarily reloading to get precision reloads. ALL the info prior to my post is extremely useful, and YOU can decide what steps or methods you want to adopt or not. The quality of the tools are paramount, and as I can afford more premium brass, I add that into the equation, in 100 case batches. And like most posting here, as I learn(ed) more, I have items I wish I had not spent the $ on, BUT they all contributed to the learning curve. In the end, YOU are doing the reloading, and if you load safely, following best practices, read and research, YOU should eventually get to where you have consistent ammunition you enjoy shooting. Good luck!! [/QUOTE]
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