I would think that the Dip kit durability would be dependent on several factors just like any other coatings. Preparation, process and finish. Once the item is dipped, you then rinse it. Once it is dry you put on a clear coat of some sort to protect the ink from dipping. This clear coat will determine some if not a majority of the durability.
coating rifle barrels and action
- Thread starter Rum and not the liquid
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Rum and not the liquid
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Mite just spray it with something itl Have a supressor on it so ther wnt b a lot of exposed metal and it won't be a bush bashing rifle
300WSMMAD
Well-Known Member
Jimbo,have a look back and find my 338 Lapua I did in a product called LIC 43. tough as nails, the only bit that is been effected is around the holes on the muzzle break as one would expect after 1000+ rnds.
Still looks as good as the day I did it and the rifle has done some kms with me through all types of ****.
If ya get stuck PM me i will point ya in the right direction.
300WSMMAD
Still looks as good as the day I did it and the rifle has done some kms with me through all types of ****.
If ya get stuck PM me i will point ya in the right direction.
300WSMMAD
coyotezapper
Well-Known Member
kcebcj
Well-Known Member
Rum and not the liquid
Well-Known Member
Awsome thanks
Rum and not the liquid
Well-Known Member
So I'm gearing up to duracoat the ultra and I'm wondering what I can and can't paint things like in side the chamber,gas port and in side the mag? Has anyone done it?
I would be really careful using playground sand for sandblasting. I wouldn't do it, myself. I would use aluminum oxide or silicone carbine. Some people use different types of beads too. Most professionals will "media blast" not "sand blast". A big reason is that the small, invisible particles created when sand is broken down can kill you over time if inhaled. I believe this damage is irreversible.
Sandblasting, Sandblasters Silicosis Risks
I'm a DIY kind of guy myself. I used to do blasting in my garage. If you do it yourself just be safe about it. Of course, wear a good respirator, but stick with other kinds of media. If you've ever done a lot of spray painting with a respirator you'll know that they do not stop everything all the time. You can see it on your face and in your nose.
The alternatives to sand are more expensive, yes. Make yourself or buy a sandblasting enclosure and keep that media contained and save it for your next project. You'll get better results with the media that's deigned for blasting too. You can pick your grit, like sandpaper, and different media will give you different results.
benchracer
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- Dec 18, 2009
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If I did that every day for eight hours a day, the risks that you cite would indeed be real and the indicated precautions would indeed be absolutely necessary.
I am a hobbyist. I have done this about half a dozen times in the last four years. I am not going to get a chronic disease from sandblasting for a grand total of about ten minutes in a year.
What you are suggesting is going waaaaaay overboard for my purposes.
I don't need to select a specific grit. The purpose of blasting in this application is twofold: to provide a surface that is free of corrosion, previously applied finishes, etc. and to rough up the surface for better adhesion of the chosen finish.
Given that the subject of discussion is coating, rather than bluing, I fail to see how grit selection is going to have much impact on the end results of applying a matte finish.
If it makes you feel better to use a different media, go for it. If one is a professional who does this sort of thing for a living, then your advice is particularly timely and important.
Any process, no matter how good, must match the intended end use for it to be relevant.
I am a hobbyist. I have done this about half a dozen times in the last four years. I am not going to get a chronic disease from sandblasting for a grand total of about ten minutes in a year.
What you are suggesting is going waaaaaay overboard for my purposes.
I don't need to select a specific grit. The purpose of blasting in this application is twofold: to provide a surface that is free of corrosion, previously applied finishes, etc. and to rough up the surface for better adhesion of the chosen finish.
Given that the subject of discussion is coating, rather than bluing, I fail to see how grit selection is going to have much impact on the end results of applying a matte finish.
If it makes you feel better to use a different media, go for it. If one is a professional who does this sort of thing for a living, then your advice is particularly timely and important.
Any process, no matter how good, must match the intended end use for it to be relevant.
