coating rifle barrels and action

Discussion in 'Long Range Hunting & Shooting' started by jimbothepunk, Jul 2, 2010.

  1. jimbothepunk

    jimbothepunk Well-Known Member

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    so i wanna coat my rifle barrel and action i dnt really like the stainless whats the best way of doing it

    thanks


    lucas
     
  2. J E Custom

    J E Custom Well-Known Member

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    There are different coatings that you can have done (Baked on finish) or you can buy spray
    on finishes from Brownells (Most are epoxy based and require around 5 days to cure properly
    but they are very tough),

    Last but not least you can do your own camo job on the rifle (Which a lot of people do) and
    camo it to match your taste or the terrain. Most people use krylon for this.
    I like to first coat the rifle (After a good solvent cleaning) with a dark green for the base cote
    Then I use a light gray and just lightly dust the rifle in random spots to break up the solid
    green. Then using different plants from the area to be hunted (Pine needles,oak leaf branches,
    Cat tail reads, ETC) lay them on the rifle and dust the area using flat black outlining the foliage.
    ( this makes the leaf pattern show up green where the base paint is coverd by the foliage).

    This method is easy and the end results are pleasing with a little practice you can make it like you want.

    Also if you camo your rifle cover the lenses and bolt to prevent over spray and do the whole
    rifle, scope, stock and all.

    There are some examples of different cammo on this site if you do a search.

    J E CUSTOM
     

  3. jimbothepunk

    jimbothepunk Well-Known Member

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    thanks

    just want a basic black lol nothing fancy
     
  4. Kevin Cram

    Kevin Cram <b>SPONSOR</b>

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    I use and offer Duracoat. It looks very nice and isn't too expensive. Here's one I did in all matte black.

    [​IMG]
     
  5. jimbothepunk

    jimbothepunk Well-Known Member

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    yeh i was thinking dura coat its about 250 nz$, 500 odd us$ tho and i was thinking there mite be a cheaper alternitive for the time being but then if ya gonna do y not do it now nt later. very nice looking rifle btw
     
  6. coyotezapper

    coyotezapper Well-Known Member

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    +1 on Duracoat especially the SL (self lubricating).
     
  7. jimbothepunk

    jimbothepunk Well-Known Member

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    can you duracoat yourself?
     
  8. benchracer

    benchracer Well-Known Member

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    I wouldn't recommend duracoating yourself. It can't be very good for the skin...
     
  9. benchracer

    benchracer Well-Known Member

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    ...but, seriously folks...

    Duracoat is very easy to do yourself. I have done several rifles with Duracoat. One thing to be aware of is that Duracoat goes on pretty thick relative to other coatings. It WILL dimensionally alter whatever you apply it to. I wouldn't apply it to any parts of your rifle where tight tolerances are important. If you apply it to your bolt, do so only behind the locking lugs and keep it out of the lug races. I would also highly recommend that Duracoat be applied BEFORE doing any bedding work. AMHIK, go 'head.

    I have also used Gunkote from Brownells. This is a bake on finish. I like it better than Duracoat.

    It is my understanding that both coatings give better results if applied over a parkerized finish, though that is only relevant to someone using chromemoly steel rather than stainless.

    Most folks will recommend bead blasting the metal for surface prep prior to application of your chosen coating. I have always sandblasted mine using fine playground sand from Lowe's and had good results with that.

    With any finish that you wish to apply, degreasing is THE most critical part of preparation. I degrease my barrelled actions, wipe them down with a clean rag, then put them in the same homemade oven that I use for bake on finishes. I heat the barrelled action to 200* or so for ten or fifteen minutes. When I do this, it is amazing how much grease boils out of every part of the assembly. I repeat the degrease and heat cycle until grease stops coming out of the assembly. Then, I let everything cool to room temperature and start the finish application process.

    I don't touch anything without having latex gloves on. Fingerprints will mess up your finish application just as surely as an incomplete degrease job.
     
  10. J E Custom

    J E Custom Well-Known Member

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    If cost is an issue then even more reason to simply paint it.(Under $20.00) and it holds up well
    and can be touched up at times.

    The dura coat is very durable and different colors have there place.(I like the green because
    I can paint other colors on it to break it up (Alcohol will remove certain camo paints with out
    harming the finnish).

    I like the black finishes because inside a blind or hide it disappears but in the outdoors it
    stands out more than any thing else (Even stainless or chrome) because of its outline.

    Tactical rifles are mostly black because of the environment they are used in (Door to door
    and inside houses where light is poor and camo has no place, But you will normally never
    see a snipers rifle that is not camouflaged.

    If you plan on hunting with the rifle and just want looks go with whatever you want but if
    stealth is important camo it to match your surroundings.

    Just my 2 cent's

    J E CUSTOM
     
  11. jimbothepunk

    jimbothepunk Well-Known Member

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    sweet i'll look into it some more the chemicals dont bother me i work with sum pretty harsh stuff
     
  12. Firecat

    Firecat Well-Known Member

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    You can also dip it. Camodipkit.com
     
  13. J E Custom

    J E Custom Well-Known Member

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    +1

    That's a great idea.

    I have not tried it yet but I intend to soon.

    Has anyone used it yet?

    J E CUSTOM
     
  14. bigngreen

    bigngreen Well-Known Member

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    I just did my rifle with Aluma-Hyde from Brownells, came out awesome! Haven't posted pics yet but it was cheap and feels fairly rugged, I can rub like crazy on it and is seems to just get slick and does not rub of. I sand blasted the whole thing then blew it of and wiped it down like crazy with acetone then shot three coats on everything and let it stay in the rafters of the garage to cure for a few days.