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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Cleaning Tumbler and Pins
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<blockquote data-quote="QuietTexan" data-source="post: 2568154" data-attributes="member: 116181"><p>I actively use pretty much every method out there - they all have different purposes. SS pins are great for scrubbing brass hard and removing heavy deposits, but as previously mentioned will remove <u>everything</u> and the brass will tarnish afterwards if not treated. Walnut might not clean as well but it polishes to a really bright shine. Some of my bench rifles I don't clean cases at all: lube, size, load. Match the process to what your end goal is, the benefits to changing might not be there for you.</p><p></p><p></p><p>My thoughts on when I use processes:</p><p></p><p>I use SS pins for brass from suppressed ARs that are nasty carbon dirty, anything that has been dumped into mud/soil/ has chunks on it, to "reset" brass and get primer pockets cleaned out for precision rifle loads when I'm changing out bullets or powder to a new load. I'll use it before storing brass when I don't know when it'll get loaded again.</p><p></p><p>Corncob is good for absorbing oils off the cases and can be treated with wax so the cases don't tarnish. Good for hunting loads IMO, because cases still cycle well and I can tell when they're dirty versus tarnished when I check them. Good for general pistol loading.</p><p></p><p>Walnut I don't use nearly as much for cleaning, but when I want to polish up bullets or cases I'll run them through. Puts a nice shine back on tarnished cases coming out of storage. Cleans up bullets, sometimes you get boxes with spots or that just look nasty - yes it probably sounds petty but if I don't know what made them tarnish I prefer to clean it off.</p><p></p><p>Ultrasonic - stubborn primer pockets or heavy carbon chunks on muzzle brakes/ suppressor parts, or if I need the inside of a case really clean to check for head separation or something like that. Probably my least-used process.</p><p></p><p>White 3M pad/ 0000 Steel wool - clean up necks before running through the neck sizing die for loading on the shooting bench, or cleaning up my bench match loads after firing.</p><p></p><p>Alcohol or acetone - you can dunk cases to remove sizing lubes if you don't want to run through a mechanical process after sizing. If you do this after an SS scrub cases come out so squeaky clean that you probably need to lube the bullets in dry Imperial or use a dirty neck brush before seating. You can see some pretty wild seating force swings when cases are this clean.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="QuietTexan, post: 2568154, member: 116181"] I actively use pretty much every method out there - they all have different purposes. SS pins are great for scrubbing brass hard and removing heavy deposits, but as previously mentioned will remove [U]everything[/U] and the brass will tarnish afterwards if not treated. Walnut might not clean as well but it polishes to a really bright shine. Some of my bench rifles I don't clean cases at all: lube, size, load. Match the process to what your end goal is, the benefits to changing might not be there for you. My thoughts on when I use processes: I use SS pins for brass from suppressed ARs that are nasty carbon dirty, anything that has been dumped into mud/soil/ has chunks on it, to "reset" brass and get primer pockets cleaned out for precision rifle loads when I'm changing out bullets or powder to a new load. I'll use it before storing brass when I don't know when it'll get loaded again. Corncob is good for absorbing oils off the cases and can be treated with wax so the cases don't tarnish. Good for hunting loads IMO, because cases still cycle well and I can tell when they're dirty versus tarnished when I check them. Good for general pistol loading. Walnut I don't use nearly as much for cleaning, but when I want to polish up bullets or cases I'll run them through. Puts a nice shine back on tarnished cases coming out of storage. Cleans up bullets, sometimes you get boxes with spots or that just look nasty - yes it probably sounds petty but if I don't know what made them tarnish I prefer to clean it off. Ultrasonic - stubborn primer pockets or heavy carbon chunks on muzzle brakes/ suppressor parts, or if I need the inside of a case really clean to check for head separation or something like that. Probably my least-used process. White 3M pad/ 0000 Steel wool - clean up necks before running through the neck sizing die for loading on the shooting bench, or cleaning up my bench match loads after firing. Alcohol or acetone - you can dunk cases to remove sizing lubes if you don't want to run through a mechanical process after sizing. If you do this after an SS scrub cases come out so squeaky clean that you probably need to lube the bullets in dry Imperial or use a dirty neck brush before seating. You can see some pretty wild seating force swings when cases are this clean. [/QUOTE]
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