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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
******Cincinnati Lathe ???********
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<blockquote data-quote="specweldtom" data-source="post: 387271" data-attributes="member: 2580"><p>Everything sounds good. A 1.75" spindle bore will handle just about any barrel. If the 60" is between centers, that's great. If it's bed length, be sure it can get an absolute minimum of 30" between centers, preferably 36" - 40".</p><p></p><p>There are a couple of different types of single phase to 3 phase converters that are simpler than what he's using sounds, and if he has to do that operation every time he stops the lathe, it would be worth doing something else. You'll stop and start the lathe a lot.</p><p></p><p>34 rpm is a very good low speed. You would probably only use it for parting off and maybe chamber reaming. I thread at 40 - 64 rpm for 12 tpi, 64 - 100 rpm for 16 tpi, and 100 rpm for 28 tpi. I ream chambers at 40 rpm. I think most guys run faster, but I don't have a continuous coolant flush, so I keep the spindle speed down. I reamed a .22 K-Hornet chamber at 160 rpm, but would not do a bigger chamber at that speed. I think it would dull the reamer faster. </p><p></p><p>Having both chucks is a big plus. Also the taper attachment is good. A quick change tool post and some turning, facing, and boring bar holders and tooling would be another big plus. A good, big drill chuck for the tailstock, and a good live center is necessary. Take anything he volunteers to include, even if you don't know what it's for. Your stepdad will.</p><p></p><p>Don't forget, it really needs the steady rest that came with it, or a replacement that is made for it. It has to fit that lathe perfectly. I rate the steadyrest as essential. You can do without one, but you'll have to scramble to do some things that are easy if you have it.</p><p></p><p>The lathe will be hard to move. It will probably weigh around 2000 to 2500 lbs. You'll have to be super careful rigging it not to torque the bed, spring it, tump it over (it'll be top-heavy), or break anything sticking out. New ones come crated and palletized so a fork truck can move them safely. Used ones don't. </p><p></p><p>I don't have a good idea about price, but if your stepdad puts the seal of approval on it, I would expect to have to pay between $2000 and $4000.</p><p></p><p>I've subscribed to this thread so I can watch it. Let us know how it goes.</p><p></p><p>Good luck, Tom</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="specweldtom, post: 387271, member: 2580"] Everything sounds good. A 1.75" spindle bore will handle just about any barrel. If the 60" is between centers, that's great. If it's bed length, be sure it can get an absolute minimum of 30" between centers, preferably 36" - 40". There are a couple of different types of single phase to 3 phase converters that are simpler than what he's using sounds, and if he has to do that operation every time he stops the lathe, it would be worth doing something else. You'll stop and start the lathe a lot. 34 rpm is a very good low speed. You would probably only use it for parting off and maybe chamber reaming. I thread at 40 - 64 rpm for 12 tpi, 64 - 100 rpm for 16 tpi, and 100 rpm for 28 tpi. I ream chambers at 40 rpm. I think most guys run faster, but I don't have a continuous coolant flush, so I keep the spindle speed down. I reamed a .22 K-Hornet chamber at 160 rpm, but would not do a bigger chamber at that speed. I think it would dull the reamer faster. Having both chucks is a big plus. Also the taper attachment is good. A quick change tool post and some turning, facing, and boring bar holders and tooling would be another big plus. A good, big drill chuck for the tailstock, and a good live center is necessary. Take anything he volunteers to include, even if you don't know what it's for. Your stepdad will. Don't forget, it really needs the steady rest that came with it, or a replacement that is made for it. It has to fit that lathe perfectly. I rate the steadyrest as essential. You can do without one, but you'll have to scramble to do some things that are easy if you have it. The lathe will be hard to move. It will probably weigh around 2000 to 2500 lbs. You'll have to be super careful rigging it not to torque the bed, spring it, tump it over (it'll be top-heavy), or break anything sticking out. New ones come crated and palletized so a fork truck can move them safely. Used ones don't. I don't have a good idea about price, but if your stepdad puts the seal of approval on it, I would expect to have to pay between $2000 and $4000. I've subscribed to this thread so I can watch it. Let us know how it goes. Good luck, Tom [/QUOTE]
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