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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
******Cincinnati Lathe ???********
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<blockquote data-quote="specweldtom" data-source="post: 384338" data-attributes="member: 2580"><p>Ditto what FJ40 said, plus it needs a 1.5" spindle bore (or at least over 1.25"), and at least 36" between centers. If 5' means overall length, it may not have 36" between centers. If it has a quick-change for threading, be sure they all work. But if it is old enough to use a set of spud gears for threading, be sure they are all there. To me, these are necessary features.</p><p>If it doesn't have a steady rest, you may not be able to find one, and it is very desirable for some barrel work. A follow rest is good, but not essential, also a taper bar is handy sometimes, but not a necessity either. Oh yeah, if it's a 3 phase motor, you'll need 3 phase power or a good convertor. </p><p></p><p>A good test for a lathe is to chuck up a piece of 1" or larger diameter barstock, face it off near the chuck, center drill it, then move that end down to a live center in the tailstock, tighten the chuck with about 1 foot of the barstock available to cut on, take a cut on it and mike the bar after cutting. If the spindle and tailstock are aligned well, you should get .0005" or less difference in the diameter at both ends. You might be able to live with .001", but you won't like it, and it'll cause you a lot of problems. I know, because it took me many hours to get mine to do .0005", and I never did get it perfect. </p><p>I'm a mullet at this stuff, but maybe some more folks will jump in with more and better knowledge. There may already be a ton of info on this subject, but I rarely find what I'm looking for when I search. I'm also a mullet on computers.</p><p></p><p>Good luck. A good lathe is a pleasure to work with, but a clunker is useless. Cincinnati was a good machine, but if it's worn out, it can't do gun work.</p><p></p><p>Tom</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="specweldtom, post: 384338, member: 2580"] Ditto what FJ40 said, plus it needs a 1.5" spindle bore (or at least over 1.25"), and at least 36" between centers. If 5' means overall length, it may not have 36" between centers. If it has a quick-change for threading, be sure they all work. But if it is old enough to use a set of spud gears for threading, be sure they are all there. To me, these are necessary features. If it doesn't have a steady rest, you may not be able to find one, and it is very desirable for some barrel work. A follow rest is good, but not essential, also a taper bar is handy sometimes, but not a necessity either. Oh yeah, if it's a 3 phase motor, you'll need 3 phase power or a good convertor. A good test for a lathe is to chuck up a piece of 1" or larger diameter barstock, face it off near the chuck, center drill it, then move that end down to a live center in the tailstock, tighten the chuck with about 1 foot of the barstock available to cut on, take a cut on it and mike the bar after cutting. If the spindle and tailstock are aligned well, you should get .0005" or less difference in the diameter at both ends. You might be able to live with .001", but you won't like it, and it'll cause you a lot of problems. I know, because it took me many hours to get mine to do .0005", and I never did get it perfect. I'm a mullet at this stuff, but maybe some more folks will jump in with more and better knowledge. There may already be a ton of info on this subject, but I rarely find what I'm looking for when I search. I'm also a mullet on computers. Good luck. A good lathe is a pleasure to work with, but a clunker is useless. Cincinnati was a good machine, but if it's worn out, it can't do gun work. Tom [/QUOTE]
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