Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Specialty Handgun Hunting
Cast bullets in a 10mm auto
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="41mag" data-source="post: 3016818" data-attributes="member: 3804"><p>I have several molds for my 10's which run fro around 175gr up to around 220gr. I don't have to worry about bears so anything in the 180 - 200gr work just fine. I really like to run HP's for just about any occasion. Luckily when I was working up my alloy for my revolvers, the same alloy works just fine in the 10mm as it is in about the same general velocity range. IF I had to use it for a SD situation it would do just fine. I wouldn't want to touch one off in the house though, I have much better things there though.</p><p></p><p>I use AA-9 almost exclusively in my loads which range from 11.5 up through 13grs, usually lit off with a CCI primer. Sometimes I will run AA-7 for the lighter weight bullets but only on rare occasions. Mostly I use MP or NOE molds as they both produce a bullet design I like, and secondly they usually offer either a mold which has couple of HP and a Solid pin or just the solid version. Most if not all of mine are plain base as I haven't really found a great need for the GC with my handgun loads. I have molds which require them in other calibers just not in any of my auto feeders. </p><p></p><p>I shoot mostly conventional lubed bullets but do powder coat some on occasion. When I do I usually make up a batch of 3-500 so it all gets done in one sitting. As for the conventional lubed they get lubed and loaded as needed. </p><p></p><p>I also do not quench anything I pour. I went through several revolvers and while testing loads and bullets, I found it just wasn't needed. I'm running air cooled in everything up to 454 Casull which is a 300gr GC RNFP. Even with those though I started off just using the Lee alox and then went to White Label 45-45-10. Nowadays I just run them through the sizer and slather in a band of Carnuba Red and run with it. </p><p></p><p>My 10mm loads run mid 1300's out of the longer barrels for both the 180's and 200's. I don't shoot many of the 200's due to the above mentioned slide slamming, but the 180 and 195's run just fine. If it breaks well it's a Glock, I'll get another one. I mainly got it to ride the tractor with in case I just up a hog or two. It usually rides in a Kenai rig for ease of access and I also carry while bowhunting.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="41mag, post: 3016818, member: 3804"] I have several molds for my 10's which run fro around 175gr up to around 220gr. I don't have to worry about bears so anything in the 180 - 200gr work just fine. I really like to run HP's for just about any occasion. Luckily when I was working up my alloy for my revolvers, the same alloy works just fine in the 10mm as it is in about the same general velocity range. IF I had to use it for a SD situation it would do just fine. I wouldn't want to touch one off in the house though, I have much better things there though. I use AA-9 almost exclusively in my loads which range from 11.5 up through 13grs, usually lit off with a CCI primer. Sometimes I will run AA-7 for the lighter weight bullets but only on rare occasions. Mostly I use MP or NOE molds as they both produce a bullet design I like, and secondly they usually offer either a mold which has couple of HP and a Solid pin or just the solid version. Most if not all of mine are plain base as I haven't really found a great need for the GC with my handgun loads. I have molds which require them in other calibers just not in any of my auto feeders. I shoot mostly conventional lubed bullets but do powder coat some on occasion. When I do I usually make up a batch of 3-500 so it all gets done in one sitting. As for the conventional lubed they get lubed and loaded as needed. I also do not quench anything I pour. I went through several revolvers and while testing loads and bullets, I found it just wasn't needed. I'm running air cooled in everything up to 454 Casull which is a 300gr GC RNFP. Even with those though I started off just using the Lee alox and then went to White Label 45-45-10. Nowadays I just run them through the sizer and slather in a band of Carnuba Red and run with it. My 10mm loads run mid 1300's out of the longer barrels for both the 180's and 200's. I don't shoot many of the 200's due to the above mentioned slide slamming, but the 180 and 195's run just fine. If it breaks well it's a Glock, I'll get another one. I mainly got it to ride the tractor with in case I just up a hog or two. It usually rides in a Kenai rig for ease of access and I also carry while bowhunting. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Specialty Handgun Hunting
Cast bullets in a 10mm auto
Top