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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Case head squaring
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<blockquote data-quote="7mmRHB" data-source="post: 59798" data-attributes="member: 3584"><p>Since there seems to be numerous skeptics on this subject, I thought I would try to make a case for making case heads square. I've been doing this process as goodgrouper has described it for 8 years, and thousands of brass, including standard magnums. There are other reasons to include this step in your brass prep regimen besides better case head to bolt face contact. Unsquared cases effect the tolerances of your sizing and seating dies. With the high point having a high percentage chance of being inside or outside the shell holder from case to case. Even an Arbor press is effected because in any given lot there are concave, convex, besides high on one side brass, along with an occosional square one. I believe this can be one cause of inconsistant "feel" while chambering your reloads. A smooth square case head snugged up to a trued bolt face can handle more pressure, and greatly reduce the amount of brass flowing into ejector holes or extractor notches, while giving you a much smoother bolt lift and less brass build up on the bolt face while fireing those warm (or hot) loads. A factory or unblueprinted gun is going to have the bolt high side and the case high side come together more often than you would like, causing even bigger gaps between the two again causing tight or inconsistent chambering. The thought of firing my gun with only a few thousanths of an inch of brass making contact with the bolt face is revolting at best. Brass will not square itself during fireing and even after multiple hot firings, the case heads remain as before, Convex, concave, or highside take goodgroupers word on this since I proved it to him with his own guns and brass fired 9 or 10 times. (Lapua 6.5-284). </p><p>Goodgroupers description of the process was a good one and a first timers learning curve is quick. My process time for this step is 100 per hour which includes trimming to length. Standard magnums leave a tiny burr sticking up about 2/3 way around which I deburr with a fine file. This adds more time but not alot, and knowing that each brass is at its best can only build your confidence. Every make of brass is out of square. Dealing with it is not that tough. Wilsons disclaimer is because of the liabilities concerning the promotion of their product as the cure. Use your head, common sense says that if the case head stamp numbers are disappearing before you get half way across, find some better brass.</p><p>Good Shooting,</p><p>7mmRHB</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="7mmRHB, post: 59798, member: 3584"] Since there seems to be numerous skeptics on this subject, I thought I would try to make a case for making case heads square. I've been doing this process as goodgrouper has described it for 8 years, and thousands of brass, including standard magnums. There are other reasons to include this step in your brass prep regimen besides better case head to bolt face contact. Unsquared cases effect the tolerances of your sizing and seating dies. With the high point having a high percentage chance of being inside or outside the shell holder from case to case. Even an Arbor press is effected because in any given lot there are concave, convex, besides high on one side brass, along with an occosional square one. I believe this can be one cause of inconsistant "feel" while chambering your reloads. A smooth square case head snugged up to a trued bolt face can handle more pressure, and greatly reduce the amount of brass flowing into ejector holes or extractor notches, while giving you a much smoother bolt lift and less brass build up on the bolt face while fireing those warm (or hot) loads. A factory or unblueprinted gun is going to have the bolt high side and the case high side come together more often than you would like, causing even bigger gaps between the two again causing tight or inconsistent chambering. The thought of firing my gun with only a few thousanths of an inch of brass making contact with the bolt face is revolting at best. Brass will not square itself during fireing and even after multiple hot firings, the case heads remain as before, Convex, concave, or highside take goodgroupers word on this since I proved it to him with his own guns and brass fired 9 or 10 times. (Lapua 6.5-284). Goodgroupers description of the process was a good one and a first timers learning curve is quick. My process time for this step is 100 per hour which includes trimming to length. Standard magnums leave a tiny burr sticking up about 2/3 way around which I deburr with a fine file. This adds more time but not alot, and knowing that each brass is at its best can only build your confidence. Every make of brass is out of square. Dealing with it is not that tough. Wilsons disclaimer is because of the liabilities concerning the promotion of their product as the cure. Use your head, common sense says that if the case head stamp numbers are disappearing before you get half way across, find some better brass. Good Shooting, 7mmRHB [/QUOTE]
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