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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Case annealing
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<blockquote data-quote="Mikecr" data-source="post: 2283008" data-attributes="member: 1521"><p>Well, with a torch you're trying to bring brass thickness to ~750deg by waving a ~3,000deg wand over the outside of your brass.</p><p>And with that, you actually have no idea what temperatures your brass cross section ever reached.</p><p>So it seems that folks compare a shading of temper against something like new Lapua brass, assuming this is what they want.</p><p>But what does that coloring really mean? Lapua likely FULL annealed before final forming (which work hardened it), and you get a case that's a good hardness -that caries that temper shading along. </p><p>But YOU do not ever want to full anneal. </p><p>What you want is a process annealing, that is a mere stress relieving. Partial/useful recovery of grain structure.</p><p>And with this, there is no little to no tempering of brass.</p><p></p><p>Given brass taken to excess temperatures, timing becomes critical to success. The grain structure changes at a temperature based rate.</p><p>But you don't even know the temperatures, so timing becomes a trial & error affair.</p><p>With the right timing per a given exposure, you can reach a usable outcome.</p><p>Not too low as to be ineffective. Not too high as to full anneal, or worse, burn the zinc out of alloy.</p><p></p><p>Dip annealing simplifies all this, because you're exposing the brass cross section (inside and outside) to the CORRECT temperature.</p><p>There is no timing needed, and you don't cause or rely on the tempering of excess temperatures.</p><p>There is no way to get anything but a perfect process anneal. </p><p>It's idiot-proof.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Mikecr, post: 2283008, member: 1521"] Well, with a torch you're trying to bring brass thickness to ~750deg by waving a ~3,000deg wand over the outside of your brass. And with that, you actually have no idea what temperatures your brass cross section ever reached. So it seems that folks compare a shading of temper against something like new Lapua brass, assuming this is what they want. But what does that coloring really mean? Lapua likely FULL annealed before final forming (which work hardened it), and you get a case that's a good hardness -that caries that temper shading along. But YOU do not ever want to full anneal. What you want is a process annealing, that is a mere stress relieving. Partial/useful recovery of grain structure. And with this, there is no little to no tempering of brass. Given brass taken to excess temperatures, timing becomes critical to success. The grain structure changes at a temperature based rate. But you don't even know the temperatures, so timing becomes a trial & error affair. With the right timing per a given exposure, you can reach a usable outcome. Not too low as to be ineffective. Not too high as to full anneal, or worse, burn the zinc out of alloy. Dip annealing simplifies all this, because you're exposing the brass cross section (inside and outside) to the CORRECT temperature. There is no timing needed, and you don't cause or rely on the tempering of excess temperatures. There is no way to get anything but a perfect process anneal. It's idiot-proof. [/QUOTE]
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Case annealing
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