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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Building my first PRS rifle
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<blockquote data-quote="kiwi49" data-source="post: 1765350" data-attributes="member: 82514"><p>Nothing wrong with 308.</p><p>I have an old (ancient) Omark single shot action in a chassis style stock, with a 27 1/2", 13 twist stainless barrel that last saw a wellknown (in New Zealand), gunsmith in 1994.</p><p>It was initially for F/TR, but the club I joined lost access to a range nearby, so I've joined another club that shoots more often and is closer.</p><p>Wind was my major learning curve and a cheap Nikko Stirling scope is still a puzzle to be solved.</p><p>My hunting rifle is a Parker Hale Safari deLuxe M98 (reworked from Europe), in 308, 10 twist, 22" barrel.</p><p>Weighs about 8lbs and kicks like a mule on amphetamines - in other words, it does hurt off the bench after a couple of hours.</p><p>Always thought I was recoil sensitive, but these old things have cured me of that flinching issue - 303 Brit out of a full wood! full size No 4 Mk 1* and being a lightweight, skinny 13 year old.</p><p>If it's just 'dipping your toe' in PRS, I'd use it as is and just learn to shoot better, with coaching from the quality, winning shooters.</p><p>Me - I love the old military cartridges, which have been tried and tested in combat - and been proven to be VERY effective at the ranges PRS is shot.</p><p>If cost is no issue - spend big.</p><p>If it's a cost sensitive challenge, start cheap, see if it's REALLY what you want to do, then start trading/selling stuff for something that is more suitable.</p><p>If it was me - I'd go 260 Rem, as it not much work to neck down/neck turn your current 308 brass.</p><p>Powders and primers are pretty much the same, all you need is a barrel (preferably off someone who has swallowed the marketing hype and wants to rebarrel a 260R), and bullets.</p><p>Sorry if I've rambled on - it's a family trademark <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite2" alt=";)" title="Wink ;)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=";)" />.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="kiwi49, post: 1765350, member: 82514"] Nothing wrong with 308. I have an old (ancient) Omark single shot action in a chassis style stock, with a 27 1/2", 13 twist stainless barrel that last saw a wellknown (in New Zealand), gunsmith in 1994. It was initially for F/TR, but the club I joined lost access to a range nearby, so I've joined another club that shoots more often and is closer. Wind was my major learning curve and a cheap Nikko Stirling scope is still a puzzle to be solved. My hunting rifle is a Parker Hale Safari deLuxe M98 (reworked from Europe), in 308, 10 twist, 22" barrel. Weighs about 8lbs and kicks like a mule on amphetamines - in other words, it does hurt off the bench after a couple of hours. Always thought I was recoil sensitive, but these old things have cured me of that flinching issue - 303 Brit out of a full wood! full size No 4 Mk 1* and being a lightweight, skinny 13 year old. If it's just 'dipping your toe' in PRS, I'd use it as is and just learn to shoot better, with coaching from the quality, winning shooters. Me - I love the old military cartridges, which have been tried and tested in combat - and been proven to be VERY effective at the ranges PRS is shot. If cost is no issue - spend big. If it's a cost sensitive challenge, start cheap, see if it's REALLY what you want to do, then start trading/selling stuff for something that is more suitable. If it was me - I'd go 260 Rem, as it not much work to neck down/neck turn your current 308 brass. Powders and primers are pretty much the same, all you need is a barrel (preferably off someone who has swallowed the marketing hype and wants to rebarrel a 260R), and bullets. Sorry if I've rambled on - it's a family trademark ;). [/QUOTE]
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Building my first PRS rifle
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