Browning A-bolt Stainless Re-barrel?

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by shooter981, Dec 7, 2008.

  1. shooter981

    shooter981 Well-Known Member

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    Jan 6, 2008
    Has anyone had any luck removing the factory barrel from a Browning A-bolt Stainless Stalker? I want to re-barrel my 300 Win mag A-bolt but I cant find a gunsmith willing to try and get my original barrel off. They say Browning used some sort of a thread sealer/lock tight on the barrel/receiver and that some of them come off and some und up ruined with either a cracked receiver or bent one. It seams as though Browning only did that on the Stainless models. Looking for anyone with suggestions or experience with these rifles. Any information will be greatly appreciated.
     
  2. linksmechanic

    linksmechanic Well-Known Member

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    Any threadlocker can be heated and therefore removed. threadlocker 680 is the worst I've ran into and I can heat it and remove whatever it's attached to.
     

  3. shooter981

    shooter981 Well-Known Member

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    I'm guessing its a thread locker. Not 100% sure. Would it be ok to heat the barrel/receiver and if so, whats my limit? Do I want to get it hot enough i cant hold my hand on it or would that damage it? What should I use? I have a small propane torch and oxy-fuel torches.
     
  4. MT4XFore

    MT4XFore Well-Known Member

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    shooter981; I have successfully had my stainless stalker 7mmRM rebarrelled and accurized by a gunsmith on this forum. Those actions do require special considerations in addition to the barrel to action fit issue. That is why many good smiths do not always want to work on this particular action. Drop a line to:
    APS
    #99 Stevenson Rd.
    Fort Shaw, MT 59443
    USA
    I'm sure he can answer any of your questions. One word of advice, dont try it yourself!
     
  5. specweldtom

    specweldtom Well-Known Member

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    Shooter, I had to heat a Remington to get it apart. Remington apparently uses some kind of mung in the threads also. Use a hot air gun if you do try it. Don't use any kind of torch, even a propane/air torch. Especially don't use an oxy-acetylene torch. It can easily melt the stainless.

    Good advice on the gunsmith.

    Good luck, Tom