Broadhead that flies strait?

Discussion in 'Bowhunting' started by Timnterra, Jun 19, 2013.

  1. Timnterra

    Timnterra Well-Known Member

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    I am getting into bow hunting this fall and hoping to get a leftover cow tag here in SD. My question is the state says you cannot use mechanical broadheads for elk they must be fixed blade. I have shot muzzy, NAP and others and cant find one that doesn't shift the point of impact half a foot at 20yds? I was thinking about the shuttle T lock. does anyone have experience with these? Montech's look good too but im afraid they will act the same as the muzzy since the shape is the same... any suggestions would be helpful
     
  2. Hunter2678

    Hunter2678 Well-Known Member

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    Ive never had POI issues with phatheads,montecs, magnus or slick tricks on any of my bows. They've all flown true out to 40-50 yds. Is your bow paper tuned? An imporperly tuned bow can be the bane of a fixed broadhead tipped arrow. Phatheads and slicks would do a number on elk.
     

  3. BlackStreak

    BlackStreak Active Member

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    If your fixed blad broad heads are changing the POI then something is off and probably more than just one thing. Timing, cam lean, knock point not correct height, arrow rest could need tweaking, arrow splin needs to be a little more or little less. Best to take your set up to someone who really really knows their business and is meticulous with there work. Bare shaft tunning and all.
     
  4. Wlhofer

    Wlhofer Well-Known Member

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    I use slick trick and find they fly very true great broad head!
     
  5. oldmossy

    oldmossy Well-Known Member

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    Shuttle t-locks fly great. I've shot them for several years. I have practiced out to 70 yards with them. They are tough, and quiet. My only thing is they are difficult to resharpen. You won't go wrong using these heads. They will be with me in NM for the Sept. 1st elk opener this year. And then to Iowa in November.(4 points-I better draw-lol)

    There are alot of quality heads out there. None of them will shoot without a properly tuned bow and some decent archery skills. I feel fixed blade heads exaggerate any inconsistances in an archers ability to shoot.
     
  6. Timnterra

    Timnterra Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the replies. I had not considered paper tuning the bow. Should this be done with field points, broadheads or both? I only know of one archery shop in my area that could do that and the guys that work there are jerks, is there an article i could reference to see the ins and outs of a properly tuned bow. I just bought a new bow and have not even tried to shoot a broadhead yet. I thought the problem was the broadhead not the bow since the field points flew where I wanted them to go. I guess i can try the muzzys and see how thew new bow shoots them i might not need new broadheads after all. My new bow is a Bowtech Destroyer 350 with 65lb limbs, an octane drop away rest, 7" octane stabilizer and 7pin trueglo sight. The bow was set up with knock loop and peep sight by the pro-shop and so far it shoots like a laser. I could not believe the difference the first time is shot it. It was, as Bowtech calls it, dead in my hand, no shock no vibration just amazing. Anyone shoot the destroyer 350? Any tips and tricks to get the best performance possible?
     
  7. oldmossy

    oldmossy Well-Known Member

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    I'm shooting the destroyer 340 now. Have a APA M7 on the way. I love Bowtech bows, but their customer service sucks ass! I have had a bowtech allegiance, guardian, and this 340 destroyer. But won't own another bowtech. Too many quality bows out there, not giving my business to a company that treats their customers the way they do.
    As far as paper tuning goes, I think it needs to be done. Either take it to someone, or research it and do it yourself. It's actually very easy to do. Although I have had a couple bows give me a little fit, most times theres nothing to it.
    You as a shooter must have good shooting form, a smooth release, and proper follow through if you want to get your bow to shoot good through paper or anytime for that matter.
     
  8. jesterg

    jesterg Well-Known Member

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    Definatly not the muzzys Imo. I have had some small issues with the new mx4 muzzys. So I just stick to thh original 100 gr. 3 blade and the POI. is consistant..They also do a number on elk, I'm veryhappy with them.
    With that said, like previously posted its more than likely a tuning problem. Somethings not square and when a broadhead exits the bow at a angle broadheads go to the extream in reporting that somethings wrong..
    Jesterg
     
  9. winmag

    winmag Well-Known Member

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    +1
    Shuttle T's
    I've shot them with my old Bowtech, & my new Bowtech Assassin. Only broad head I've ever been able to fly to the same POI as my field points.
    All my bows are set up & paper tuned while I'm at the pro shop. Guess I'm fortunate to have a good one close by. Great guys, & great equipment. They really take the time to get everything just right for me.
    I'd look for another pro shop near your area. Good luck
     
  10. 41mag

    41mag Well-Known Member

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    As has been mentioned your form will play a big role in how well things fly. I guess I am lucky as when I started shooting half a dozen years or so back, the folks at the shop I was at, not the workers but target shooters who were in practicing, were remarking how well my form was for someone who had just picked up a bow.

    That said I don't consider myself anything much more than average. I don't shoot groups much though I find it gets very expensive. I have set up my own bows almost since the beginning. It isn't hard just a bit time consuming. There are a couple of links below that will help you out greatly in dialing in your bow, but again, YOU are the determining factor. If your form is up to snuff, and your shooting up to 50 - 75 shots per session with out getting tired, you can get through the paper and walk back tuning pretty quick and easy. Lots of folks will go with one or the other, I went with both. I figured if I was spending the time to screw with it at all I might as well give it all a try. Good, bad, or otherwise, I usually hit what I am aiming at out to 40yds.

    Anywho, here are a couple of links,

    This one is about the best as it goes through plenty of the basics and will get you into small groups with straight flying arrows, I suggest you save it to your PC as the links for it come and go.

    Easton Tuning Guide

    For straight up paper tuning this is about as basic as it gets,

    Paper Tuning

    Also you might simply do a search on "Tuning a Bow". It will bring up plenty of info. Browse through what comes up and you will start to see pieces pop out repeatedly, Those pieces usually work over the broad spectrum. Another thing is don't just rush into this and think "hey I'm gonna do this when I get home from work". Take a full day or two, to work through it a little at a time and you will be MUCH better off. This keeps you on track with dialing things in right, and you don't get tired from shooting which will induce other issues while your trying to adjust things.

    As for true flying broadheads, I have used half a dozen or more and find that once the bow is right, the arrows are right, the flight will be right. I use heavy spined arrows in all my bows, I shoot 340's at 29" so I know that even if I back the pounds down to 62 or crank them up to 70, I might be a bit over on one but still within spec on the other. Speed doesn't help one bit if you can't hit what your aiming at. I can easily hit 265fps or better, with each of my 3 bows shooting 430 and up grained arrows.

    I guess what I am getting at is way too many folks get caught up in trying to get 300+fps using light arrows. This is all well and good if you have the proper one to do so, if not your inducing issues into each shot and will never be able to tune things in right at varied distances. You might get it great at 20 but at 30 things are going to be whacked. Dial it in at 30 and find that 20 is whacked. You end up chasing your tail.

    As for a brand and type of head I would recommend, well after using the half dozen or so different ones mentioned above, I have settled on the Slick Trick- Razor Trick. To date I have not pulled but two out of several dozen that when screwed into an arrow were not true. I contacted ST and was sent a new pack.

    When I set up, I number my arrows, and my BH's, then I shoot them all until I find which ones shoot the best. I have more issues with arrows than the head. Once I find the best I set them up as a matched set, head to arrow. After that, I have no issues simply screwing a field tip in for practicing, and then swapping over to the Razor Trick to go hunt. Even with simply pulling the new heads out of the package and screwing them in, I have no issues heading straight to the woods as I have shot enough of them to know that within 20-30 yards they will hit usually better than I can hold.

    One last tip I can give you is to aim small, hit small. Use targets that are just big enough you can focus on them at what ever range your shooting. I use orange foam ear plugs and find out to 40yds they have improved my accuracy twofold. If you look at the Archery folder at the link under my sig, you will see what I am talking about. The first pictures there are at 20yds and from a week after picking up a new bow. There are others posted in Shooting Groups, also after picking up a new to me Drenalin, which are out to 40yds, and a couple that I have shot both right and left handed as well with my Tomkat. You will see how well the ear plugs show up and how well they can be dialed in on, and also why I don't like shooting groups.

    Good luck and hope this helps.
     
  11. sox35

    sox35 Active Member

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    I would also utilize Easton's Bow Tuning Guide. Pay attention to broad head
    Tuning. Easton Bow Tuning Guide is considered the archery bible.
     
  12. pockets380

    pockets380 Well-Known Member

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    I tried Muzzy 100gr three blades and they were low and left. I had my bow tuned and it helped a little. I ended up switching to Wac'em exits. Its a four blade head. They fly right on with my field points out to 60 yards.
     
  13. ILtoMT50

    ILtoMT50 Well-Known Member

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    Jun 20, 2013
    i use trophy ridge ultimate steel, they are some of the straightest shooting non mechanical broadheads ive found. BUT they arent as wide some of the 1 1/2" blades on the market right now. probably why they fly a lil better i guess. also i dont shoot field points much when im prepping for hunting season. i designate a couple of the broadheads for my target arrows and use those. i havent bowhunted for awhile but that helped with my accuracy as opposed to shooting field points all year up until a day or two before the season starts. it tears your target up some but it is what it is i guess.
     
  14. speeders

    speeders Well-Known Member

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    May 25, 2005
    Paper tuning is just a start. There are very few broadheads that I shoot that will have the same POI as my field points right after paper tuning. That goes for both fixed and mechanical. I then broadhead tune. I can get most broadheads to shoot the same as my field points. I have shot a lot of broadheads over my 26 years of bowhunting. In recent years I've shot grim reaper mechanicals, ulmer mechanicals, shuttle t's, schwackers and ram cats. Out of those both the ram cats and ulmer heads shot the closest to my field points right off the start but after tuning each head they will all shoot with field points out to 100 yrds plus... Well at least to the best of my abilities. I think the absolutely best flying head I think is the ramcat. I've shot a few animals including a moose at long range and the penetration is second to none.