Brass Cleaning

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by 406pat, Apr 14, 2010.

  1. 406pat

    406pat Well-Known Member

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    Anybody out there using any of the orange cleaning derivatives to clean powder residue off brass? I've used it for cleaning carbon and grease off engine stuff and it was sure nice to do that kind of work without the smell and toxic nature of other alternatives. I wouldn't think it would do anything structurally to the brass either.

    Just wanted to see if someone out there has tried.

    Thanks for looking!
     
  2. winmag

    winmag Well-Known Member

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    I use walnut media in my tumbler, and tumble before I size, to keep my dyes safe, and after I size to remove the Redding Imperial Sizing Wax. Belive it or not but the wax from sizing the cases pulls off alot when tumbled clean. Oh, and nothin ''toxic'' if that was your concern, but I have not tried the ''gojo'' meathod.
     

  3. 406pat

    406pat Well-Known Member

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    I'm looking for a way to clean without tumbling. The orange cleaner didn't give me the results I was looking for as the primer pockets still had a good amount of junk in them. I found a different recipe that I'm going to try and I'll post the results.
     
  4. Loner

    Loner Well-Known Member

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    An utlra sonic unit with heat is the best way I have found. I use 50/50 water and
    vinegar, tablespoon of lemi-shine, and a dish soap with ammonia laurel sulfate in it.
    They come out spotless inside and out.
     
  5. CA48

    CA48 Well-Known Member

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  6. winmag

    winmag Well-Known Member

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    Is there a down side to tumbeling? I use a primer pocket brush before I tumble, and a nylon brush on the end of a screw gun to clean the case necks and inside the brass.
    Does tumbeling have some adverse effect on brass I dont know about?
     
  7. 264junkie

    264junkie Well-Known Member

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    Not an orange dirivitive but I've had good success with the IOSSO liquid case cleaner before tumbling.
     
  8. Tikkamike

    Tikkamike Well-Known Member

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    Winmag,


    Yes there can be a negative effect from tumbling. To me it kind of falls into the "to neck turn or not to neck turn" kind of argument. According to varmint al's website he refuses to tumble because it puts tiny knicks or dents in the case mouth thus creating an uneven case mouth which he finds to be too detromental to accuracy for his liking. The bullet needs to leave the case evenly and simultaniously on all sides or it could theoreticaly start the bullet in the lands less than perfectly square. However in my opinion if you were that worried about it you could keep your cases trimmed to sammi minimum which if you neck size only you would be pretty much be just polishing up the mouth of your cases each time but they would be square. I have never expiramented with his theory but it makes sence, maybe only applicable to bench resters though... it may be worth investigating. I do not tumble very often and after reading that I decided I would only tumble if I knew I was going to trim. Thats my thoughts anyway
     
  9. winmag

    winmag Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Mike, I have been planning on getting a necksizer dye as well as my F/L dye to prolong brass life. Ive found the 'sweet' spot on my Redding F/L dye, for my shortmag, and Im reluctant to change anything Im doing at the moment. But I guess theres no other way to learn, or to not get stuck in a rutt and settle for very good accuracy, when I can possibly achieve great accuracy with a different die and a new case cleaning meathod............... I just HATE CHANGE..........:D
     
  10. Tikkamike

    Tikkamike Well-Known Member

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    Well if the neck sizer doesn't improve accuracy at least you can still go back to the FL die. Let me know how it goes. I have a neck sizer for my 25-06 I have not tried yet also.
     
  11. mo

    mo Well-Known Member

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    I use the Stainless Steel media. Make cases Look like new on the inside and out, and even the primer pockets.
     
  12. Loner

    Loner Well-Known Member

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    That is one of the few articles on the 6mm site I have ever read with bad info in it.
    Heat is your friend, good cleaners come with a heater. It's not soap that works it's
    a surfactant you need, which many but not all soaps contain in varying %'s. 8 to 12
    minutes is all a good unit needs to run and the cases sparkle if the load is tuned
    weight wise to the machine and a good mix is used. I strain the mixture, then dump
    the cases into a baking soda and water mix, then three quick rinses in hot water. No
    problems with tarnishing or discoloring.
     
  13. woods

    woods Well-Known Member

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    I gave my tumbler to a kid starting reloading. Did not care for the dust and abrasives and the cost of media and polishing agents. Now I use Flitz when I need to clean magic marker load numbers off the cases or if they get too bad. The Flitzing will usually last about 4 or 5 reloads before the slick and shiny wears off

    [​IMG]

    They chamber significantly easier also.

    I have used steel wool and Scotchbrite and they both leave the cases with a clean but rough finish

    [​IMG]

    scotchbrite on the left, Flitz on the right

    The Zip Trim makes it easy, I can trim, chamfer, clean the outside, clean the inside of the necks and apply mica on 50 cases in about an hour

    [​IMG]
     
  14. 406pat

    406pat Well-Known Member

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    Well I tried a mix of lemon juice, dawn and water and that seemed to work really well on the outside. They cleaned up right away. Still had to scrub primer pockets though and the inside didn't get clean. Back to the drawing board I guess.

    Still on the hunt for the elusive no touch chemical case cleaner!