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Bolt Bore Reaming
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<blockquote data-quote="Brent" data-source="post: 70056" data-attributes="member: 99"><p>Chris,</p><p></p><p>I'm not sure if you are familiar with how the GTR reamer is located/aligned and supported in the existing raceway but it will cut evenly on all sides with the precision ground bushings that guide the reamer via the integral mandrel at the front of the reamer. However, it does not take a rocket scientist to see that there is no support/alignment at the front throughout the whole length of cut on the front ring, unless something like what I have done is used to support the reamer shank when it pushes the front bushing out into the magazine well. BTW, the reamer mandrel is supported at the front and rear both before it cuts through the .690 bushing I made up, if it was not, nothing would ever be in alignment.</p><p></p><p>The reamer setup Greg has put together works very well but I'd like to see him address the lack of support in the front ring and offer a solution.</p><p></p><p>I'll have to take a few pix, some of this is a little difficult to explain, for me anyway.</p><p></p><p>Have you been measuring the front support area at 708-710 with something turned to the specific diameter or by some other means?</p><p></p><p>Kirby ant Kregg have probably done more than I have and could coment on that more than I. Greg Tannel that I am aware of (very possibly incorrect on that), and so far, myself, have not run into what you describe and see the 705 cleaning up both front and rear. What I've seen is 702 to 703, and one at 704 at the front. I haven't seen any smaller or larger, yet. But you are right, a 705 would be insufficient if one was found to be even 705... in my mind anyway. I am thinking about having Greg make me a 708 reamer so I don't find out the hard way and get into a pinch for time and have to wait on one, but 710 may even be a better choice? </p><p></p><p>The two of mine that were left with nicks in the lower ramp area would be good to ream with the larger OD as they both were exactly .001 large when it was all said and done, obviously taking more off the lower, thin side as the bushing fell low into the mag well. </p><p></p><p>I'll have to turn the front bolt bushing .001 larger and hone the top one down to fit in order to keep "perfect" alignment in this case.</p><p></p><p>I may pay the extra and have the next reamer made with the both the smaller OD mandrel and larger OD reamer shank portions each extended 3" further. </p><p></p><p>Both sections of the reamer IMO are very close to being too short for a LA and would never work on any longer custom action I build, they would also work much better on a LA if it were longer, then you could ream the front ring coming in from the rear, which makes more sense considering the thin area on bottom would be cut last at the very end, not at the begining. </p><p></p><p>A guy could ream from the rear with the existing length reamer mandrel but he'd need a full set of <strong>3"</strong> long bushings for the the front ring so the mandrel would engauge it "far enough" for alignment before cutting through a warped tang.</p><p></p><p>As the existing 12" reamer is, reaming from the front and cutting the last bit of the tang barely leaves any of the 705 reamer body in the support area of the front ring, it almost goes right through bofore it's done cleaning up the tang. </p><p></p><p>If the reamer mandrel section was longer, going in from the rear would be an option, if the reamer shank behind the flutes was longer it would just be easier doing LA's from the front, or longer customs period. </p><p></p><p>Greg said it's about another $100 for longer than 12" reamers because it's not standard stock I guess.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Brent, post: 70056, member: 99"] Chris, I'm not sure if you are familiar with how the GTR reamer is located/aligned and supported in the existing raceway but it will cut evenly on all sides with the precision ground bushings that guide the reamer via the integral mandrel at the front of the reamer. However, it does not take a rocket scientist to see that there is no support/alignment at the front throughout the whole length of cut on the front ring, unless something like what I have done is used to support the reamer shank when it pushes the front bushing out into the magazine well. BTW, the reamer mandrel is supported at the front and rear both before it cuts through the .690 bushing I made up, if it was not, nothing would ever be in alignment. The reamer setup Greg has put together works very well but I'd like to see him address the lack of support in the front ring and offer a solution. I'll have to take a few pix, some of this is a little difficult to explain, for me anyway. Have you been measuring the front support area at 708-710 with something turned to the specific diameter or by some other means? Kirby ant Kregg have probably done more than I have and could coment on that more than I. Greg Tannel that I am aware of (very possibly incorrect on that), and so far, myself, have not run into what you describe and see the 705 cleaning up both front and rear. What I've seen is 702 to 703, and one at 704 at the front. I haven't seen any smaller or larger, yet. But you are right, a 705 would be insufficient if one was found to be even 705... in my mind anyway. I am thinking about having Greg make me a 708 reamer so I don't find out the hard way and get into a pinch for time and have to wait on one, but 710 may even be a better choice? The two of mine that were left with nicks in the lower ramp area would be good to ream with the larger OD as they both were exactly .001 large when it was all said and done, obviously taking more off the lower, thin side as the bushing fell low into the mag well. I'll have to turn the front bolt bushing .001 larger and hone the top one down to fit in order to keep "perfect" alignment in this case. I may pay the extra and have the next reamer made with the both the smaller OD mandrel and larger OD reamer shank portions each extended 3" further. Both sections of the reamer IMO are very close to being too short for a LA and would never work on any longer custom action I build, they would also work much better on a LA if it were longer, then you could ream the front ring coming in from the rear, which makes more sense considering the thin area on bottom would be cut last at the very end, not at the begining. A guy could ream from the rear with the existing length reamer mandrel but he'd need a full set of [b]3"[/b] long bushings for the the front ring so the mandrel would engauge it "far enough" for alignment before cutting through a warped tang. As the existing 12" reamer is, reaming from the front and cutting the last bit of the tang barely leaves any of the 705 reamer body in the support area of the front ring, it almost goes right through bofore it's done cleaning up the tang. If the reamer mandrel section was longer, going in from the rear would be an option, if the reamer shank behind the flutes was longer it would just be easier doing LA's from the front, or longer customs period. Greg said it's about another $100 for longer than 12" reamers because it's not standard stock I guess. [/QUOTE]
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