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The Basics, Starting Out
Blinking/locktime question
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<blockquote data-quote="4mesh063" data-source="post: 54593" data-attributes="member: 941"><p>I'm not sure the way you word this if you are saying that you blink intentionaly or if it's an accident. Well, my first advise would be DON'T blink. You will find that your best practice while dry firing is to watch the movement of the crosshairs during and after the lock release. This will dispel the idea you have that you are pulling shots. If you're shooting off a bench and it's a decent setup, I'd bet you don't pull anything. After dry firing a while and seeing a good steady hold on every shot, you can eliminate yourself as a source of error. </p><p></p><p>You also should be watching through the scope AS THE GUN GOES OFF. If you remember the Sig line a guy had on here some time back, S1 says "See the fire. Follow through matters.". What he's saying is that if you aren't looking in the scope and see the muzzle flash, then the chances of moving something else are far greater. </p><p> </p><p>As for the firing pin, I will get to see how they work soon. The seem real nice and are far stiffer. I'm talking about the Tubb's speedlock pin. I can't immagine how having a faster lock time could help accuracy. Other than hitting the primer harder maybe being more consistant or lighting primers with thicker cups, I just don't see what advantage they will provide. </p><p></p><p>One thing I did a while back was i wired up my BAT action to my Digital storage scope and used a 5v source to both release off the firing pin, then signal again when it fell. The scope then gave me a period on the waveform. I was sampling at 350Mhz so I think that's plenty fast enough for an accurate reading. I didn't save the results but the timing was consistant enough for me to never beleive anything about lock time ever again. What a crock.</p><p></p><p>The pins are $50 from Russ Haydon Shooters Supply and come with a new shroud. They are noticeably stronger. If it were me and money was any concern, I'd opt for some other $50 toy before buying a firing pin. Go get something nice like a guage from Sinclair or Stoney Point and check something that's a little more important.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="4mesh063, post: 54593, member: 941"] I'm not sure the way you word this if you are saying that you blink intentionaly or if it's an accident. Well, my first advise would be DON'T blink. You will find that your best practice while dry firing is to watch the movement of the crosshairs during and after the lock release. This will dispel the idea you have that you are pulling shots. If you're shooting off a bench and it's a decent setup, I'd bet you don't pull anything. After dry firing a while and seeing a good steady hold on every shot, you can eliminate yourself as a source of error. You also should be watching through the scope AS THE GUN GOES OFF. If you remember the Sig line a guy had on here some time back, S1 says "See the fire. Follow through matters.". What he's saying is that if you aren't looking in the scope and see the muzzle flash, then the chances of moving something else are far greater. As for the firing pin, I will get to see how they work soon. The seem real nice and are far stiffer. I'm talking about the Tubb's speedlock pin. I can't immagine how having a faster lock time could help accuracy. Other than hitting the primer harder maybe being more consistant or lighting primers with thicker cups, I just don't see what advantage they will provide. One thing I did a while back was i wired up my BAT action to my Digital storage scope and used a 5v source to both release off the firing pin, then signal again when it fell. The scope then gave me a period on the waveform. I was sampling at 350Mhz so I think that's plenty fast enough for an accurate reading. I didn't save the results but the timing was consistant enough for me to never beleive anything about lock time ever again. What a crock. The pins are $50 from Russ Haydon Shooters Supply and come with a new shroud. They are noticeably stronger. If it were me and money was any concern, I'd opt for some other $50 toy before buying a firing pin. Go get something nice like a guage from Sinclair or Stoney Point and check something that's a little more important. [/QUOTE]
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Blinking/locktime question
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