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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
bedding - work back from the shop
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<blockquote data-quote="eshorebwhntr" data-source="post: 1118314" data-attributes="member: 17112"><p>Rather than try to type out all the steps I do I'll try to dig up a video I found that I watched about 10 times to make sure I was doing it right a few years ago before I did my first one. It's actually a series and shows a great amount of detail. In my opinion this dude goes above and beyond and you can kind of tailor his process as you like (which is kind of what I did). </p><p> </p><p>I'll give you my theory on the whole deal.</p><p> </p><p>1. You want the bedding to be mated to your action so that it sits in there solidly, stress free and doesn't shift under recoil.</p><p> </p><p>2. The job of the lug is to transfer the energy from the action to the stock. When this happens the rear of the lug is what is making contact. That is why I only tape the front, sides and bottom of the lug. That way you get a few thou of clearance on all sides except for the rear of the lug. That part should sit firmly against a good section of bedding compound, not wood.</p><p> </p><p>3. The pillars should allow a more solid attachment to the stock. If installed correctly the metal pillars will allow your action bolts to go in finger tight about 95% of the way and then get tight all at once at the end rather than a "spongy" tightness that gets gradually tighter during the last 25%.</p><p> </p><p>4. I tend to like the barrel completely free floated. Some will say the barrel needs a pressure point down the stock channel somewhere and can be "adjusted" to fine tune harmonics, blah, blah, blah. Not saying it won't work, I've just never had to do it to get the results I expected in about 8-10 guns I've done.</p><p> </p><p>An end mill makes for pretty finish work but good functional results can be had with a dremel used carefully.</p><p> </p><p>Here's the link to the videos I found the most educational.</p><p> </p><p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GItWubJX6VY" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GItWubJX6VY</a></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="eshorebwhntr, post: 1118314, member: 17112"] Rather than try to type out all the steps I do I'll try to dig up a video I found that I watched about 10 times to make sure I was doing it right a few years ago before I did my first one. It's actually a series and shows a great amount of detail. In my opinion this dude goes above and beyond and you can kind of tailor his process as you like (which is kind of what I did). I'll give you my theory on the whole deal. 1. You want the bedding to be mated to your action so that it sits in there solidly, stress free and doesn't shift under recoil. 2. The job of the lug is to transfer the energy from the action to the stock. When this happens the rear of the lug is what is making contact. That is why I only tape the front, sides and bottom of the lug. That way you get a few thou of clearance on all sides except for the rear of the lug. That part should sit firmly against a good section of bedding compound, not wood. 3. The pillars should allow a more solid attachment to the stock. If installed correctly the metal pillars will allow your action bolts to go in finger tight about 95% of the way and then get tight all at once at the end rather than a "spongy" tightness that gets gradually tighter during the last 25%. 4. I tend to like the barrel completely free floated. Some will say the barrel needs a pressure point down the stock channel somewhere and can be "adjusted" to fine tune harmonics, blah, blah, blah. Not saying it won't work, I've just never had to do it to get the results I expected in about 8-10 guns I've done. An end mill makes for pretty finish work but good functional results can be had with a dremel used carefully. Here's the link to the videos I found the most educational. [URL]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GItWubJX6VY[/URL] [/QUOTE]
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bedding - work back from the shop
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